tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-17018097774632299512024-03-08T17:51:06.642+05:30Elusive 42Travelogues, food & stuff I like. In the perennial pursuit of happiness, living life is never enough.Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.comBlogger60125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-81828331974744121982012-08-11T16:53:00.001+05:302012-08-11T16:53:30.582+05:30Moods of the Moon<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Few days back, the moon along with the clouds was looking so beautiful and the clouds surrounding it were giving it so many different moods that I experimented a bit with it. Here are some of the pics. Do tell me which ones you liked!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RY6H049iEzs/UCY9jYfq0qI/AAAAAAAAp0U/Bof8oknb0h4/s1600/IMG_8818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RY6H049iEzs/UCY9jYfq0qI/AAAAAAAAp0U/Bof8oknb0h4/s320/IMG_8818.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZSVnts4SxYY/UCY9j1qT6mI/AAAAAAAAp0c/Qn3wBgVgBj4/s1600/IMG_8819.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZSVnts4SxYY/UCY9j1qT6mI/AAAAAAAAp0c/Qn3wBgVgBj4/s400/IMG_8819.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The blue and yellow color gradient gives a beautiful but mysterious feel.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oeV-OCl3Y5I/UCY9ig1ExII/AAAAAAAAp0M/QBqLTZXn_wU/s1600/IMG_8817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oeV-OCl3Y5I/UCY9ig1ExII/AAAAAAAAp0M/QBqLTZXn_wU/s320/IMG_8817.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Got the blue tint using Tungsten for WB. Feeling blue?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mr0U8Tova4I/UCY9k8I5X_I/AAAAAAAAp0k/7kUsbMhryGU/s1600/IMG_8820.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mr0U8Tova4I/UCY9k8I5X_I/AAAAAAAAp0k/7kUsbMhryGU/s320/IMG_8820.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The covered moon gives it an ominous feel.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y3636VhTIvs/UCY9llNG5pI/AAAAAAAAp0s/hCrB-NkPv1c/s1600/IMG_8825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y3636VhTIvs/UCY9llNG5pI/AAAAAAAAp0s/hCrB-NkPv1c/s320/IMG_8825.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The clouds form an interesting shape behind the moon. Does it look like a dragon to you?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gUzAdxE9NNc/UCY9mVvOggI/AAAAAAAAp00/8RnpnwdtJik/s1600/IMG_8830.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gUzAdxE9NNc/UCY9mVvOggI/AAAAAAAAp00/8RnpnwdtJik/s320/IMG_8830.JPG" width="255" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This one looks like it's from the set of a 1960 bollywood movie. Romantic and antique.</td></tr>
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<br /></div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com60tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-24354722693163263922012-06-03T16:11:00.001+05:302012-06-03T16:11:59.974+05:30Remembering Skandagiri<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Skandagiri is a hill near Bangalore, at around 70km distance. It is also known as Kalavara Durga, meaning the fort of Kalavara. It has an ancient dilapidated fort that belonged to a local king and was later concurred and used by Tipu Sultan. This fort has witnessed many wars, the latest being that between Tipu Sultan and the British invaders. After Tipu's downfall, the fort was ignored and laid in ruins. Today one can only see parts of the fort wall in some places. The locals also say there are are many tunnels and caves in the hill and the fort that are still un-explored since those times.<br />
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Skandagiri is best climbed very early in the morning or in a full moon night. Sunrise seen from the top is breathtaking. The path is steep at places and the climb takes 2-3 hours. At the top of the hill is a stretch of flat area that has a temple and few stone pillars belonging to ancient houses. One can pitch a tent here, if it is not too windy. It is best to go in a large group and move together. Not too many people go here and there were incidents reported of people getting lost or purposefully misdirected by miscreants. Apparently, I heard that hiking is now banned recently on Skandagiri due to some serious incidents reported.<br />
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I had visited Skandagiri sometime in January 2011. It was just two of us, and we did not take the risk of going there in the night. We did not find the people very friendly to outsiders - finding parking, water and food was difficult and we had to ward off a few shady looking self invited 'guides'. The daytime hike was hot and strenuous, but the excitement of thrill of reaching the top drove us all along. Here are a few pictures I took. I could not see or capture any breathtaking sunrise or sunset moments though.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YTsZnTse1YU/T8s2fI-sg8I/AAAAAAAApjI/8tX-VyuY1x4/s1600/02012011075.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YTsZnTse1YU/T8s2fI-sg8I/AAAAAAAApjI/8tX-VyuY1x4/s400/02012011075.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching the village at the foothills</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rOOlyD7bgIs/T8s25SwzZhI/AAAAAAAApjQ/AfEnvMpBeZ8/s1600/02012011079.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rOOlyD7bgIs/T8s25SwzZhI/AAAAAAAApjQ/AfEnvMpBeZ8/s400/02012011079.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had to disturb the goats blocked our path sometimes...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DQsK9ppVSyo/T8s2_u4BjSI/AAAAAAAApjY/pCWTeR2mVMA/s1600/DPP_0006.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DQsK9ppVSyo/T8s2_u4BjSI/AAAAAAAApjY/pCWTeR2mVMA/s400/DPP_0006.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...while the goatherds rested on a nearby rock</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UE5y9HP6Aqc/T8s3efE5JJI/AAAAAAAApjg/8ZTbROZSI2g/s1600/DPP_0009.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UE5y9HP6Aqc/T8s3efE5JJI/AAAAAAAApjg/8ZTbROZSI2g/s320/DPP_0009.jpeg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shrubs gave some shade in the path...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E8HwDpCpbS0/T8s3gNpTjhI/AAAAAAAApjo/NP66eBsjzZU/s1600/DPP_0014.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E8HwDpCpbS0/T8s3gNpTjhI/AAAAAAAApjo/NP66eBsjzZU/s320/DPP_0014.jpeg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...that sometimes led to ancient fort gates</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oNkYOHAWwRY/T8s5gZdiO_I/AAAAAAAApjw/P5OAQuEoZsI/s1600/DPP_0020.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oNkYOHAWwRY/T8s5gZdiO_I/AAAAAAAApjw/P5OAQuEoZsI/s400/DPP_0020.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Towards the top it was mostly granite rocks with very few vegetation</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bmv-S_C-eq4/T8s5y3ZtDeI/AAAAAAAApj4/ZZOOFdIvVNo/s1600/DPP_0039.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bmv-S_C-eq4/T8s5y3ZtDeI/AAAAAAAApj4/ZZOOFdIvVNo/s400/DPP_0039.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the top we could see a tent with a few campfires; <br />probably used recently by the night hikers.<br />But sadly, the tent and the surrounding place was littered and dirty.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ViPC9QBnu_4/T8s6ZrB0IrI/AAAAAAAApkA/Nu5ingyxgG4/s1600/DPP_0035.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ViPC9QBnu_4/T8s6ZrB0IrI/AAAAAAAApkA/Nu5ingyxgG4/s400/DPP_0035.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old Nandi Bull sat there facing the unused temple; as if<br />witnessing all the happenings around and guarding the hill top.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YHw-CqmRc6M/T8s6azxUDkI/AAAAAAAApkI/Z4sVp4WwRy0/s1600/DPP_0037.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YHw-CqmRc6M/T8s6azxUDkI/AAAAAAAApkI/Z4sVp4WwRy0/s400/DPP_0037.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pointed nose like protrusion at the top gave a bird's eye view</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RGCNYZzfUbM/T8s8a_Ak7qI/AAAAAAAApkQ/SpAep4fmpLQ/s1600/DPP_0028.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RGCNYZzfUbM/T8s8a_Ak7qI/AAAAAAAApkQ/SpAep4fmpLQ/s400/DPP_0028.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At noon, all we could see is the dry land and houses around us.<br />But the early morning fog, clouds beneath you, and <br />a rising sun would definitely be some sight from here!</td></tr>
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Hoping to visit Skandagiri again sometime in the future if it is still allowed and if I get the right company. Next time I hope to do hike in night to see the sunrise from the top.<br />
<br /></div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-18381009390453424212011-12-29T15:30:00.000+05:302011-12-29T15:47:49.031+05:30Bhutan. Part 4: Paro & back<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_UlgzpKk9k4/TvwL3bpBupI/AAAAAAAAj1U/cEQzqBsNRBI/s1600/09032011547.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_UlgzpKk9k4/TvwL3bpBupI/AAAAAAAAj1U/cEQzqBsNRBI/s200/09032011547.jpeg" width="112" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stupa @ Paro Marketplace</td></tr>
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This is in continuation of my <a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-1-crossing-border.html">earlier posts detailing my experience in Bhutan</a>.<br />
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To me the name Paro, at the first instance, sounded like that of a girl in some Indian village. :) Paro is a city, a district and name of the valley in which it is located as well. It is just 70 km from Thimpu - the capital city of Bhutan, about one and half hour drive through beautiful mountainous roads with deep valleys. It is the only city with an international airport in Bhutan.<br />
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Now try and guess the population of Paro. Pick a number... what can be the population of a city with an international airport? I was surprised to learn that the population of Paro is only about 20000. It shouldn't have been a surprise for us, particularly after having seen Thimpu, but the number sounded so ridiculously small!<br />
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The sight of the airport was another surprise. This was the smallest international airport I've ever seen. We actually rode on the road right alongside the runway. A flight landing or taking off would have been a spectacle to watch, but only a handful of flights arrive in a week, and airport is idle most of the times.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GI9b7pZRIr94XKayaJ-ZFBBamWEC9a5g6uuGgtF4j-U?feat=embedwebsite" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img height="225" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hXUzSA1fKRE/TvAz3gdo9mI/AAAAAAAAjYg/PsBVfGZLMJQ/s400/ParoBhutanAirport.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paro Airport</td></tr>
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Paro has its own central square with an assembly point and clock tower, just like Thimpu. The roads around the central
square are lined with shops. Roads are well laid, with scarce traffic. Most of the eating joints are at this place, but most places have strict opening times. By the time we reached Paro it was well past breakfast time and not yet the time for lunch, and we found the restaurants closed. We had to make do with biscuits. :)
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RNYaQeRXIdA/TvtPfFMxbOI/AAAAAAAAj0M/RxsuyNW5b6A/s1600/09032011551.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RNYaQeRXIdA/TvtPfFMxbOI/AAAAAAAAj0M/RxsuyNW5b6A/s200/09032011551.jpeg" width="200" /></a></td><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tQdc52Mjgzk/TvtPfdzQCKI/AAAAAAAAj0Y/uW-WDAjN-X8/s1600/09032011552.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tQdc52Mjgzk/TvtPfdzQCKI/AAAAAAAAj0Y/uW-WDAjN-X8/s200/09032011552.jpeg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main market street</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Child playing at a shop window</td></tr>
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<b>Paro Taktsang:</b><br />
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Immediately after reaching Paro, we headed for the Paro Taktsang - a famous monastery at Paro. The monastery is built on a steep cliffside high up on one of the hills at Paro. Vehicles can be parked at the base of the hill and the monastery can be reached after a 3hr hike up the hill. The hike is not very steep, but the altitude makes it a bit strenuous. There is a small cafe midway to the top where one can have hot tea and snacks. Horses and mules are also available for hire by people who can not hike. We also found locals selling beads and colorful handmade artifacts nearby. Seeing us Indians, they entertained us by singing popular Bollywood songs! Beyond this point the road progressively narrows down. There was a stream and a waterfall just before the monastery gates, with ice formed at its base. The monastery was build around the year 1692, around a cave that was used by Guru Padmasambabha to meditate. Guru Padmasambabha (also known as Guru Rinpoche) is said to have brought Buddhism to this region (Bhutan, Tibet and adjoining regions).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2UdsDCoJGMc/TvwHaIlc9CI/AAAAAAAAj08/22dHhw4K3JI/s1600/09032011506.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2UdsDCoJGMc/TvwHaIlc9CI/AAAAAAAAj08/22dHhw4K3JI/s200/09032011506.jpeg" width="200" /></a></td><td style="text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8UGT8Dqf-F0/TvwHaVFT3KI/AAAAAAAAj1M/VGTU-7Y7OXY/s1600/IMG_1783.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8UGT8Dqf-F0/TvwHaVFT3KI/AAAAAAAAj1M/VGTU-7Y7OXY/s200/IMG_1783.jpeg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horses for hire</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colorful beads on sale</td></tr>
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The final path to the monastery was narrow. It made me wonder as to how would they have constructed the monastery in the first place. It is rightly called the Tiger's Nest. According to legend, Guru Padmasambabha flew to this location from Tibet on the back of a tigress from Khenpajong. Indeed, in 1692 the only way one could have reached here and built such massive structure was by flying! The foot path that we hiked on was made only in the year 2000.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c_rkh2QrsqI/Tvv5f2CUzpI/AAAAAAAAj0k/RHJRJmL0ChM/s1600/2011-03-09_08-14-30_569.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c_rkh2QrsqI/Tvv5f2CUzpI/AAAAAAAAj0k/RHJRJmL0ChM/s200/2011-03-09_08-14-30_569.jpeg" width="150" /></a></td><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iGV19EwR5zM/Tvv5gf38TQI/AAAAAAAAj0w/5_xNKneoRBo/s1600/IMG_1762.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iGV19EwR5zM/Tvv5gf38TQI/AAAAAAAAj0w/5_xNKneoRBo/s200/IMG_1762.jpeg" width="134" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Taktsang</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aptly named Tiger's Nest</td></tr>
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Foreign tourists are allowed inside only when accompanied by a Bhutanese caretaker. Photography is not allowed inside the monastery. All electronic equipments must be left outside before entering. The monastery was the most beautiful of all the monasteries I had seen till then. All wooden frames were carved and then painted. The walls had fine paintings. The Buddha statue was just magnificent. Above all, there was an immense sense of calmness in the monastery. The magnificence of nature all around and the view of the deep valley right adjacent to the monastery evoked awe and respect for every small thing I had taken for granted till then. It was like opening of a third eye for me. Climbing down is faster, but it still took us around 8hrs to complete our visit.<br />
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<b>Drukgyal Dzong:</b><br />
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Our next visit was to this fortress cum monastery named Drukgyal Dzong. Dzong in local language means fortress, and "Druk Gyal" means "Bhutanese Victory". This fortress was believed to have been constructed in the year 1649 after the victory of the local ruler over Tibetan/Mongolian invaders. This is one of four such fortresses in Paro. We could see the remnants of the deep reservoirs used as granaries, the stables used for horses, the tall tower of the monastery and the watch towers at the corners of the fortress.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b9r-EypHJdE/TvwYpOQO67I/AAAAAAAAj1w/AlfJluu-N6g/s1600/IMG_1818.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b9r-EypHJdE/TvwYpOQO67I/AAAAAAAAj1w/AlfJluu-N6g/s200/IMG_1818.jpeg" width="200" /></a></td><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mxcx0n3fAnI/TvwYo7eUhVI/AAAAAAAAj1g/Rqv2wJ7Rokk/s1600/IMG_1814.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mxcx0n3fAnI/TvwYo7eUhVI/AAAAAAAAj1g/Rqv2wJ7Rokk/s200/IMG_1814.jpeg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drukgyal Dzong from the outside</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the main courtyard</td></tr>
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The fortress cum monastery was also used as a summer palace by the local ruler till some time in the 19th century when it was destroyed in a fire. Tragically the fire is said to have happened when a lamp overturned during an important religious festival in the monastery. Most of the structures were made of wood and were burnt to ashes. All that remained were the mud walls and few charred wooden doors and beams.<br />
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<b>The National Museum of Bhutan:</b><br />
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Out next visit was to the National Museum of Bhutan at Paro, that houses some of the best art and cultural treasures of Bhutan. It is constructed in 1968 after renovating a watchtower of the Paro Dzong. The watchtower can be seen today as a round building adjacent to the main museum building. The walls of this round watchtower are an unbelievable 2.5m thick.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RXMmLs7Sr9k/Tvwd2oWqzDI/AAAAAAAAj2A/j66A1yu7jOE/s1600/09032011526.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RXMmLs7Sr9k/Tvwd2oWqzDI/AAAAAAAAj2A/j66A1yu7jOE/s200/09032011526.jpeg" width="200" /></a></td><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w73-jZ1AoxU/Tvwd2tmuLmI/AAAAAAAAj14/prl945Hb7Zc/s1600/09032011533.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w73-jZ1AoxU/Tvwd2tmuLmI/AAAAAAAAj14/prl945Hb7Zc/s200/09032011533.jpeg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Museum entry gate</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ancient watchtower</td></tr>
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There was heavy renovation work happening the day we had visited the museum. On top of that a short thunderstorm that occurred minutes before we reached the museum disrupted electricity supply to the museum. Entry to the museum was barred while there was no power. Sadly the power supply was not restored even after our waiting there for two full hours.<br/><br/>
That was all the time we had at Paro. I doubt if I have done justice in painting a picture of Paro. I do not think I could capture on film the beauty I have seen with my eyes, and I could not visit a few places as well. After returning from Paro, we stayed at Thimpu for a day more before starting back to India. Our return journey was the same as our onward journey - a bus journey through the beautiful valleys of Bhutan. I will end this series of posts with a few bits of information and contact details for any one of you who may be planning for a visit in the near future.
<ul>
<li>Mr. Sambhu Ghosh. Driver at Siliguri. Drives a Maruti Omni. Speaks English & Hindi. Tel: 9153240120</li>
<li>Hotel Centinel at Phuentsholing. Nice clean rooms. Very courteous staff.</li>
<li>Hotel Tandin at Thimpu. Midrange hotel with restaurant. Right near the main marketplace at Thimpu. Staff understands manageable though very little English and Hindi.</li>
<li>Mr. Karma. Driver at Thimpu. Drives a Hyundai Santro. Doubles up as a guide when required. Extremely polite. Understands and speaks a little of English & Hindi. Tel: 17590040 or 77200737. Email: Ktshetrim@yahoo.com</li>
</ul>
And just a few other tips: There are plenty of busses between Phuentsholing and Thimpu, but ensure that you book your tickets at least one day prior. Do not forget to make a list of places you want to visit and take permits for all of them. There is no need for currency exchange if you are carrying Indian currency.<br/><br/>
If you have visited Bhutan, I would be glad to hear your experience as well!
<br /><br />
<a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-1-crossing-border.html">Back to the beginning of Bhutan Trip.</a><br />
<br />
<b>Posts in this series:</b><br/>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-1-crossing-border.html">Crossing the border</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-2-first-impressions.html">First Impressions</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/11/bhutan-trip-part-3-thimpu.html">Thimpu</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/12/bhutan-part-4-paro-back.html">Paro & back (this post)</a></li>
</ul>
</div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-45730315133400008872011-11-16T23:00:00.000+05:302011-12-29T15:48:46.371+05:30Bhutan Trip. Part 3: Thimpu<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This is in continuation of my <a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-1-crossing-border.html">earlier posts detailing my experience in Bhutan</a>. Thimpu is where we had stayed, and we spent quite some time exploring places around it.<br />
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<b>Motithang Takin Preserve</b><br />
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The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhutan_Takin" target="_blank">Takin</a> is a unique endangered animal found in this region. It's the national animal of Bhutan. The Motithang preserve is made specially to showcase the Takin, though it has a few other species of deer. You can feed them, with guidance from the zoo keeper. The Takin looks like a bloated goat. It actually belongs a small family of goat antelopes. If you are familiar with open source software and you imagine its caricature, I'm sure the GNU (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GNU) logo would flash in your mind.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMgs7pZfC0k/Tr-zilPdsdI/AAAAAAAAin8/2hlyeZasbx8/s1600/TakinAnimal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMgs7pZfC0k/Tr-zilPdsdI/AAAAAAAAin8/2hlyeZasbx8/s400/TakinAnimal.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Takin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The locals have a nice story on the evolution of the Takin. Lama Drukpa Kuenlay is one of the favorite saints of Bhutan because of his quirky antics. Once he went about showing off his magical powers as his devotees demanded of him. He procured bones of a whole cow and a goat, who had been eaten in a feast. He then stuck the goats head on the body of the cow. He then performed some magic and the skeleton came to life and ran into the woods. Later people spotted a strange animal which looked like a cow with a goats head and attributed that to the Lama's magic. Thus is the origin of the Takin.
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<b>The Radio Tower</b></div>
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This would not surface in any tourist guide of Bhutan. But our driver took us here to show us the places they used to hang around as youngsters. It's a small hill with a radio/TV transmission tower of the BBS (Bhutan Broadcasting Service). One can get a bird's eye view of the city from this place. He showed us the palace of the Bhutan King, and the quarters of the royal ministers from up there. The place was very windy being so high up, and it was difficult to stand still. There was also a sign warning us about the radiations from the transmitting tower. We didn't spend much time there.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i9BBIqR1XbE/Tr-z65OWHBI/AAAAAAAAioI/Sw46sQgOupM/s1600/ViewFromRadioTowerHill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i9BBIqR1XbE/Tr-z65OWHBI/AAAAAAAAioI/Sw46sQgOupM/s400/ViewFromRadioTowerHill.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thimpu city viewed from the Radio Tower</td></tr>
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<b>Museums and Art Galleries</b></div>
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Thimpu has lots of museums and art galleries highlighting the culture of Bhutan. Handicraft and tourism being one of the major export from Bhutan, the government puts a lot of importance in preserving the Bhutanese culture. Photography is not allowed in many of the museums. </div>
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The folk heritage museum gives a glimpse of the real Bhutanese culture. Tourists are not allowed to go in without a guide. The guides speak fluent english, and do a good job of explaining stuff. The guide took us through a traditional multi-level Bhutanese house with all the equipments of a functioning home. The courtyard in front of the house had place to keep cows, fodder and wood. There is a small oven to make small fire used to burn scented pine leaves that give a nice scent and keep the bugs away. A wooden bath tub with two compartments is used to take bath. One of the compartments is filled with rocks heated in the oven and the person sits in the other compartment while water is filled up in the tub. A painted or wooden male phallus is used as a symbol in Bhutan to protect the house. The houses are made of mud and wood, with up to three floors. Upper floors have large windows while ground floors have very small ones. The clay oven on the ground floor is where the cook their meal. Right above the oven on the first floor is where they sleep under the warmth of the oven. The top most floor is where they dry their chillies and meat.</div>
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<tr>
<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L5Ak0FMg_Kg/Tr-0fdhh9bI/AAAAAAAAioU/v_YaBEC886Y/s1600/ThimpuMuseum_TraditionalHouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="185" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L5Ak0FMg_Kg/Tr-0fdhh9bI/AAAAAAAAioU/v_YaBEC886Y/s200/ThimpuMuseum_TraditionalHouse.jpg" width="120" /></a></td>
<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NCqLrvnYGls/Tr-0fSOt0RI/AAAAAAAAiog/AB051CbQhsE/s1600/ThimpuMuseum_TraditionalHouse2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NCqLrvnYGls/Tr-0fSOt0RI/AAAAAAAAiog/AB051CbQhsE/s200/ThimpuMuseum_TraditionalHouse2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td>
<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oaVw2on7myE/Tr-0fj4j2OI/AAAAAAAAios/Pp9jiwAhue8/s1600/ThimpuMuseum_RiceMillWaterPowered.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="185" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oaVw2on7myE/Tr-0fj4j2OI/AAAAAAAAios/Pp9jiwAhue8/s200/ThimpuMuseum_RiceMillWaterPowered.jpg" width="120" /></a></td>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtyard with small fire place</td>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wooden phallus</td>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rice mill</td>
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</tbody></table>
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The "National Institute of Art Education" and the "Handicraft Emporium", both close to the "Folk Heritage Museum" are all about Bhutanese art and craft. You can see students being trained there. A store outside sells some of the art and craft created there. The "National Textile Museum" is an exciting place that took us through the evolution of Bhutanese textile and fashion. Most of the museums do not allow any sort of photography. If you visit there, take your time to look around.</div>
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<b>The Memorial Chorten</b></div>
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The National Memorial Chorten, a religious stupa, was constructed in the year 1974 by the queen of Bhutan Phuntsho Choden Wangchuck in memory of her royal son, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck who died in the year 1972. It is a pristine white structure in the middle of a large bounded area. Many devotees can be seen circling the stupa in a clockwise direction. The stupa is home to a huge number of pigeons.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9RBDsZFp-r4/Tr-1wHQY0uI/AAAAAAAAio4/eDtadD4ZRPk/s1600/NationalMemorialChorten.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9RBDsZFp-r4/Tr-1wHQY0uI/AAAAAAAAio4/eDtadD4ZRPk/s400/NationalMemorialChorten.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">National Memorial Chorten</td></tr>
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<b>The Giant Golden Buddha Statue</b></div>
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There is a giant gilded bronze statue of Sakyamuni Buddha being constructed right outside Thimpu. It is really large with a height of 200ft. The base of the statue will house 100,000 smaller statues of the Buddha. At that height, it is even larger than the Statue of Liberty. It was still under construction when we went there and not yet open to the public. But thanks to our resourceful driver, we got an entry into the construction site to have a good look. It will be a pride of Bhutan once it gets completed.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ayXL4UFUjk/Tr-2FZX8ODI/AAAAAAAAipE/qm4S2erAYnY/s1600/ThimpuGoldenBuddha.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ayXL4UFUjk/Tr-2FZX8ODI/AAAAAAAAipE/qm4S2erAYnY/s400/ThimpuGoldenBuddha.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giant Golden Buddha</td></tr>
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<b>Monasteries</b></div>
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There are many monasteries around Thimpu. We went to one of them, I forget which one though. No photography was allowed inside. The bright colors and patterns on the wood were beautiful. The stone plates that you see kept above the row of buddhist kala chakras are used to print the colorful religious flags typically seen in buddhist places of worship.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QrAAYA3FMmc/Tr-2bWeg3MI/AAAAAAAAipQ/u5QUgSG0T1M/s1600/ThimpuMonastry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QrAAYA3FMmc/Tr-2bWeg3MI/AAAAAAAAipQ/u5QUgSG0T1M/s400/ThimpuMonastry.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thimpu Monastery</td></tr>
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<b>108 Dochulla Chortens (Stupas)</b></div>
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These are a cluster of 108 small chortens or stupas built on a small hill little outside Thimpu, around 20km from Thimpu. They are on the way to the Dochulla pass (30km from Thimpu), which offer breathtaking views of the valley below.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YiDADjsRLSY/Tr-3PZqah8I/AAAAAAAAipc/bkV7_--Rxhk/s1600/Dochulla1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YiDADjsRLSY/Tr-3PZqah8I/AAAAAAAAipc/bkV7_--Rxhk/s400/Dochulla1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 108 stupas of Dochulla</td></tr>
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The Dochulla Chortens were built by Queen Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck. They were built in memory of the soldiers who lost their lives in a fight against anti India terrorists who were holed up in southern Bhutan and were launching attacks on India from inside Bhutan. The small war, fought in 2003, is referred to the as the "Duar War of 2003" and lasted for just a day and half. However a lot of life was lost and the stupas were built after that to bring peace to the region. Each of the small stupa has a unique representation of the Buddha. The centermost stupa is the largest and supposedly houses some remains of the war along with religious material.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yd7eQ9hN0mc/Tr-3W1PG-nI/AAAAAAAAipo/_o04rmhQVnk/s1600/Dochulla3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yd7eQ9hN0mc/Tr-3W1PG-nI/AAAAAAAAipo/_o04rmhQVnk/s400/Dochulla3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Central Stupa of Dochulla</td></tr>
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After Thimpu, we headed for Paro. Again with our trusted driver cum guide. More on Paro in the next post.<br />
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<a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-1-crossing-border.html">Back to the beginning of Bhutan Trip.</a><br />
<br />
<b>Posts in this series:</b><br/>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-1-crossing-border.html">Crossing the border</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-2-first-impressions.html">First Impressions</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/11/bhutan-trip-part-3-thimpu.html">Thimpu (this post)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/12/bhutan-part-4-paro-back.html">Paro & back</a></li>
</ul>
<br /></div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-22442207579469956022011-11-13T18:10:00.000+05:302011-12-29T15:49:38.988+05:30Bhutan Trip. Part 2: First Impressions<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3y5y1dOaqZ8/Tr-m3Ej-NFI/AAAAAAAAimo/PMwvA2_A3vo/s1600/ThimpuClockTower1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3y5y1dOaqZ8/Tr-m3Ej-NFI/AAAAAAAAimo/PMwvA2_A3vo/s200/ThimpuClockTower1.jpg" width="134" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thimpu Clock Tower</td></tr>
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This is in continuation of my <a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-1-crossing-border.html">earlier post about my experience reaching Bhutan</a>. The bus journey from Phuentsholing to Bhutan would have been boring but for my co-passenger. This was a man and his wife sitting along with us on the last seat of the bus. They were in their traditional Bhutanese national dress, and were continuously chewing on beetle nuts. The Bhutanese have a habit of chewing on raw beetle nuts. The raw beetle nuts have a very strong scent, which can be discomforting to people who are not used to it. It took me quite a lot of time to realize the source of the strange scent and I never quite got used to it through the day long journey.<br />
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But my co-passenger was a real friendly and resourceful person. He knew a little broken english and we conversed all through the journey. He was happy and eager to tell us about their culture, habits, and places to see in Bhutan. He taught us a few basic Bhutanese words. I will never forget this interaction with him for a few strange interactions (coincidences?) we had with this person:</div>
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>He really gave us a crash course on Bhutan during our bus ride to Thimpu</li>
<li>At Thimpu he called a friend of his who drives a taxi and solved our transport problem at Bhutan</li>
<li>Once while traveling to an out of way place in Bhutan, we suddenly discovered at a check post that we had not taken permit for that place. We were more than half way to our destination and would have hated to be turned back. This person magically appeared there and talked to the check post guards to let us go. He was apparently going to his village which was on the same route.</li>
<li>The day we were coming back, we see him again at the bus stand and he travelled back with us in the same bus!</li>
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If not the world, at least Bhutan is really a small place.<br />
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<b>Settling down at Thimpu</b></div>
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By the time we reached Thimpu it was evening. Thimpu is a really small city. We did have to run around a bit to find a decent place with rooms available. After unpacking our bags and freshening up a bit, we went out for a stroll.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JEpEG6K9DJ0/Tr-nebNoOmI/AAAAAAAAim0/AIOkIQpX-FU/s1600/ThimpuClockTower2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JEpEG6K9DJ0/Tr-nebNoOmI/AAAAAAAAim0/AIOkIQpX-FU/s400/ThimpuClockTower2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thimpu Clock Tower & Assembly Point</td></tr>
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It gives the feeling of a quaint neat little town. At the center of the town is an assembly point with an ornate clock tower. Surrounding it are the prominent government buildings, hotels and shopping center. There are many hotels around providing rooms to stay at prices ranging from the cheap to the ultra luxury. </div>
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If you are the nature loving kind, try and pick one slightly away from the main street so that you get a view of the beautiful mountains and the valley. But if you are the shopaholic kind, stick to the ones around the main street. The best of both can be had if you stay at a place in the same lane as the Royal Post Office of Bhutan (Chang Lam, the first major road as you come out from the Thimpu bus stand). We stayed at the Tandin Hotel, on the main market road, but a little away from the market place on Nordzin Lam, towards the Taj Tashi hotel.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y09SmVjRwaw/Tr-n5GXKf_I/AAAAAAAAinA/qw28yQhOi3k/s1600/ThimpuMarketRoadAtNight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y09SmVjRwaw/Tr-n5GXKf_I/AAAAAAAAinA/qw28yQhOi3k/s400/ThimpuMarketRoadAtNight.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The market around the Nordzin Lam is lined with handicraft shops. The vegetable shops there among other things sell yummy fresh fruits, yak butter and cheese.</div>
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Almost every street corner has a big notice board for public notices. That is the only place where we could find any kind of pamphlets, posters and banners, unlike the place I stay at where walls fences and even trees are not spared from ugly posters.</div>
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<b>General Impressions, Food & Culture:</b></div>
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There are lots of restaurants around the city center. Though you get all kinds of food, Bhutanese food is the easiest to find and the best tasting, with Chinese coming a close second. People around understand a bit of English and even Hindi - the tourism effect.</div>
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Most of the shops, hotels and even bars in Bhutan are managed by ladies. The Bhutanese women seem a liberated lot, at least in this matter. I wonder what the men do, probably they work back at the farms.</div>
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Bhutanese food is characterized by its heavy use of cheese and chillies. They even have a dish made only out of chillies! But don't worry, the chillies are not too hot and food in general food is not spicy. Meat is mostly pork & beef, but you also get quite a few chicken dishes. We literally gorged ourselves with Bhutanese dishes, day in and day out. Some of the dishes that we liked are:</div>
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Ema Datshi: Cheese and Chilli preparation. Whitish gravy with green and red chilli pieces. Not too hot, if you are used to spicy Indian preparation, particularly from the south.</li>
<li>Jasha Maru: Chicken curry.</li>
<li>Thupka: Soupy noodles. Comes in various flavors with vegetables, chicken, sea food, etc.</li>
<li>Butter Tea: A preparation of hot water mixed with butter and tea herbs. Does not taste like regular tea, but the Bhutanese swear by its taste. We liked it for its unique taste and the warm liquid felt good in the chill.</li>
</ul>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9HXKmSNjCzo/Tr-rU4T0-pI/AAAAAAAAinM/7NU4MCCH3A0/s1600/ChilliBeingDried.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9HXKmSNjCzo/Tr-rU4T0-pI/AAAAAAAAinM/7NU4MCCH3A0/s400/ChilliBeingDried.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chillies being dried</td></tr>
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Alcohol consumption is however has been part of the tradition, and many families still suffer because of alcoholic family members. Alcohol use has also been the cause of many social evils like wife beating. The Bhutanese government has been taking steps to discourage alcohol. We did see many posters in notice boards denouncing alcohol consumption and highlighting its evil effects. Bhutan is also not big in alcohol production, though it is not banned. Most of the alcohol (90%) consumed in Bhutan are imported.</div>
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There is a complete ban of tobacco and tobacco products in Bhutan. Clandestine import of tobacco attracts heavy fine and imprisonment. While we were there the local newspapers had a news of a monk facing many years of prison for being caught with tobacco. Visitors are allowed to carry tobacco for self use after paying an import duty of 100%.</div>
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The Bhutanese (both males and females) are however heavy consumers of raw beetle nut (locally called doma), which is addictive. And that's not a terribly good thing either.</div>
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Bhutan is however very low in crime rate. Most of the population lives in small villages, close to nature. They don't have a lot of modern amenities like big cars, bikes and TVs, but then when you live at such a beautiful place you don't need any of those. People in general appear happy, contended and proud of being Bhutanese. Bhutan is one of the countries with highest "happiness index", and it is quite visible. Bhutan exports handicraft, timber, fruits, spices, electricity, and cement. Our driver proudly spoke about a new hydroelectricity project coming up near his village and how it will change the face of his village. Bhutan is a constitutional monarchy (like the UK). The small Bhutanese army (around 20000) is trained by the Indian army.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-95kXFwFguVE/Tr-rh2DFRWI/AAAAAAAAinY/4OM2EuXqPB4/s1600/WeaverLady.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-95kXFwFguVE/Tr-rh2DFRWI/AAAAAAAAinY/4OM2EuXqPB4/s400/WeaverLady.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old lady weaving outside her house.</td></tr>
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The people are simple, friendly and hard working. The person who was our driver, a handsome young man of 25, was an epitome of politeness. He had a small job in the department of culture and drove taxi in the evenings after office hours to supplement his income. His wife (people marry young in Bhutan) stayed at home, took care of their two kids, tended to a small garden, and spun textiles in a hand loom. The clothes this guy was wearing were woven at home. We actually saw most houses in the outskirts with hand looms and dyed yarns left to dry.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6x9H2Klma2g/Tr-t3TO-5KI/AAAAAAAAink/q8oIjIpUr6Y/s1600/BhutaneseMan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6x9H2Klma2g/Tr-t3TO-5KI/AAAAAAAAink/q8oIjIpUr6Y/s200/BhutaneseMan.jpg" width="200" /></a></td><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W9yRpHWqMAM/Tr-t3tHOJOI/AAAAAAAAinw/IsBqdB0dpq4/s1600/BhutaneseLadies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W9yRpHWqMAM/Tr-t3tHOJOI/AAAAAAAAinw/IsBqdB0dpq4/s200/BhutaneseLadies.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bhutanese man in traditional dress</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bhutanese ladies in traditional dress</td></tr>
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The Bhutanese national wear is compulsory for all Bhutanese people employed in government offices. Even otherwise, most bhutanese stick to their national wear. We hardly saw anybody with western wear in Bhutan.</div>
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<b>In and around Thimpu:</b><br />
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Bhutan is a beautiful place, full of nature and unique culture. Over the next couple of days, we went around places in and near Thimpu. The driver whom we hired at the Thimpu bus stand became our trusted guide during our stay at Bhutan. We also visited Paro, which is another major town in Bhutan.<br />
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More about the places in and around Thimpu & Paro in the next post.<br />
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<a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-1-crossing-border.html">Back to the beginning of Bhutan Trip.</a><br />
<br />
<b>Posts in this series:</b><br/>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-1-crossing-border.html">Crossing the border</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-2-first-impressions.html">First Impressions (this post)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/11/bhutan-trip-part-3-thimpu.html">Thimpu</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/12/bhutan-part-4-paro-back.html">Paro & back</a></li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-73325977190955551552011-10-15T22:37:00.000+05:302011-12-29T15:43:06.981+05:30Bhutan Trip. Part 1: Crossing the border<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Bhutan is also known as the Land of the Thunder Dragon. It is not as well travelled as some other neighboring countries of India, and that is all the more reason for it's still pristine culture and beauty.<br />
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We made this trip in March beginning of this year, 2011. We were in Assam for a friend's wedding and took the opportunity to cross over the border for a visit to Bhutan. Though our visit to Assam was planned with an extra week to spend apart from the marriage, we were undecided about what to do once we arrive there. Exploring Assam was our first preference, but that looked difficult as there were some disturbances in that area. Bhutan was the only option left and so we began our cross border trip totally unplanned. In this post I'll take you through our experience till we crossed the border. Rest of the trip in subsequent posts.<br/>
<br /><br/><b>From India to Bhutan:</b><br/><br/>
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>From Bangalore, our flight took us to a place called Bagdogra (near Darjeeling) in West Bengal, via Kolkatta.</li>
<li>From Bagdogra, we took a cab to a place called Siliguri. Siliguri is a small city, again in West Bengal. We spent the rest of the day in Siliguri. We were right near the commercial center of the city, near the railway station and it was dirty (like similar places in many other cities).</li>
<li>From Siliguri the next day we caught an early morning train to a place called Hasimara. Distance: ~160km. Travel time: ~3hrs. The train goes through forests, and we saw some wild elephants on the way.</li>
<li>From Hasimara we took an auto rickshaw to Jaigaon. Distance: ~ 15km. Travel time: ~ 30 mins. Jaigaon is the border town. Across the border is the Bhutanese town Phuentsholing. A decorated gate separates the two cities.</li>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fZJ908qNX1A/Tpmq1co3M7I/AAAAAAAAiPU/7Gbju9CYhoo/s1600/Silhoutte_Trees.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fZJ908qNX1A/Tpmq1co3M7I/AAAAAAAAiPU/7Gbju9CYhoo/s400/Silhoutte_Trees.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silhoutte of trees. From train enroute Hasimara.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kw-ij5aNc6s/TpmsyY2NcZI/AAAAAAAAiPg/SLIE9xzpItY/s1600/Siliguri_Station.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kw-ij5aNc6s/TpmsyY2NcZI/AAAAAAAAiPg/SLIE9xzpItY/s200/Siliguri_Station.jpeg" width="200" /></a></td><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wG-hjJeRn-c/TpmsyywxZrI/AAAAAAAAiPs/oBHbrGkoozw/s1600/Hasimara_to_Jaigaon_Auto.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wG-hjJeRn-c/TpmsyywxZrI/AAAAAAAAiPs/oBHbrGkoozw/s200/Hasimara_to_Jaigaon_Auto.jpeg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Siliguri station.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Auto rickshaw. Hasimara to Jaigaon.</td></tr>
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<br /><br/><b>Stay at Phuentsholing:</b><br/><br/>
We crossed the border over, but to go further into Bhutan we needed to get passes against our Indian passports. Some places in Bhutan are accessible just with an Indian passport, but not all of them. We made a list of places to visit and got passes from the embassy office at Phuentsholing. That however took us two days, as the office was closed on weekends. We had to wait until Monday to get our passes.<br />
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But our stay at Phuentsholing was very enjoyable. There are many good hotels around. We experimented with Bhutanese cuisine. And there was plenty more to do, that you can discover in the pictures below.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R2NfQuTVcas/Tpm3Bn9gy1I/AAAAAAAAiRY/UcHrVvrUoJ4/s1600/PhuentSholing_School_Kids.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R2NfQuTVcas/Tpm3Bn9gy1I/AAAAAAAAiRY/UcHrVvrUoJ4/s200/PhuentSholing_School_Kids.jpeg" width="150" /></a></td><td style="text-align: center;" valign="bottom"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_BbSBi4wdic/Tpm3CL3a6kI/AAAAAAAAiRg/_624EmXsx7k/s1600/PhuentSholing_Street2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_BbSBi4wdic/Tpm3CL3a6kI/AAAAAAAAiRg/_624EmXsx7k/s200/PhuentSholing_Street2.jpeg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">School kids enjoying ice cream from a vendor.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blindfolded idols being sold in shops. </td></tr>
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<br /><br/><b>Phuentsholing Monastery:</b><br/><br/>
Phuentsholing has a pretty large monastery, right near the market place. The nice lawn in front of it serves as the meeting place of locals, and is nice place to just sit and observe people around.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QlAcBXTmpkc/Tpmvu_tzubI/AAAAAAAAiP4/xca1vqPm-zc/s1600/PhuentSholing_Monastery1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QlAcBXTmpkc/Tpmvu_tzubI/AAAAAAAAiP4/xca1vqPm-zc/s400/PhuentSholing_Monastery1.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Phuentsholing Monastery</td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WhoRGzs_A-0/TpmwIKLMbiI/AAAAAAAAiQE/hekXupl70Eg/s1600/PhuentSholing_Monastery3_Devotee.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WhoRGzs_A-0/TpmwIKLMbiI/AAAAAAAAiQE/hekXupl70Eg/s200/PhuentSholing_Monastery3_Devotee.jpeg" width="200" /></a>
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<br /><br/><b>Archery & Dart Throwing:</b><br/><br/>
Archery is the national sport of Bhutan. And the Bhutanese people truly enjoy archery. The archery competition we saw was being held between two groups on two adjacent hills. They would, by turns, try and hit the target at the opponent's hill. And they sure were pretty good at it.
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Dart throwing is also popular among the Bhutanese. Weekends are usually when they gather in local playgrounds for competitions. Their singing and dancing during the competition is nice to watch.<br/>
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<br/><br /><b>Local Attractions:</b><br/><br/>
Phuentsholing has a crocodile breeding farm. I don't know what the crocodiles are used for, but the attendants claimed that they will ultimately be released back into the rivers. We saw some pretty huge crocodiles there. Near Phuentsholing is a monastery called the Kharbandi monastery. It is around 30 minutes by cab, and it is an easy walk downhill. One can have a nice view of the city below from the monastery. Fortunately the prayer room was open when we visited, and we visited inside the prayer hall. We were offered the holy water inside, which strangely tasted like alcohol!
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<br/><br /><b>Onwards to Thimpu:</b><br/><br/>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-016KOwGpAT8/Tpm7d0vr1cI/AAAAAAAAiRw/1JUNa3DdU2c/s1600/PhuentSholing_To_Thimpu_Bus.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="112" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-016KOwGpAT8/Tpm7d0vr1cI/AAAAAAAAiRw/1JUNa3DdU2c/s200/PhuentSholing_To_Thimpu_Bus.jpeg" /></a></div> On Monday, after getting our passes, we rolled our luggage to the local bus stop, and boarded a bus for Thimpu, the capital of Bhutan. <br/><br/> Only small buses run on the mountainous regions. The buses run packed, but luckily we got tickets in one of them. <br/><br/> Though the sign boards claimed them to be air conditioned, our bus didn't have any air conditioning. But it was not all that bad and the air outside was pretty fresh and cool. More on Thimpu, in the next post.</div>
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<b>Posts in this series:</b><br/>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-1-crossing-border.html">Crossing the border (this post)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/10/bhutan-trip-part-2-first-impressions.html">First Impressions</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/11/bhutan-trip-part-3-thimpu.html">Thimpu</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/12/bhutan-part-4-paro-back.html">Paro & back</a></li>
</ul>
</div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com18Phuentsholing, Bhutan26.858923 89.39047926.8305915 89.350996999999992 26.8872545 89.429961tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-37523071619783793002011-10-10T20:35:00.000+05:302011-10-10T20:35:05.117+05:30Ranganthittu Bird Sanctuary. A short trip.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This was a weekend (8th October) one day trip to the bird sanctuary Ranganthittu, just about 130 kilometers from Bangalore. October is not the right season to visit there; migratory birds arrive here only during the winter months. There were a few birds nesting though, mostly the Ibis. It was a nice quiet journey, relaxing and not much eventful. I'll just leave you with some facts and pictures.<br />
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<b>Distance from Bangalore:</b> 120 kilometers<br />
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<b>Route:</b> State Highway 17, Mysore Road<br />
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<b>Road condition:</b> Good, except around 5km of the last stretch after going off Mysore Road. Watch out for occasional small but deadly speed bumps. Lots of fuel stations, eating joints and other shops on the way.<br />
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<b>Driving time:</b> 2-3 hours<br />
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<b>At Ranganthittu:</b> Walk around the lake. Sit on top of machaans. Watch the birds flying, fishing and feeding. Take photographs. Boating in the lake. There's a restaurant at the sanctuary with limited menu. But lots of places if you come out to the main road. Time your trip accordingly or carry food and water. Large parking space inside, but commercial vehicles are not allowed.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lotus with dragonfly</td>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dragonfly on a lotus bud</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delicate yellow flowers on the grass</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ants on the budding "Bird of Paradise"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feeding its young</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Join me! The water feels good.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WRAUgIBz8GU/TpMINbwnWiI/AAAAAAAAiOg/tLIPnl7tf5A/s1600/IMG_7725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WRAUgIBz8GU/TpMINbwnWiI/AAAAAAAAiOg/tLIPnl7tf5A/s200/IMG_7725.JPG" width="200" /></a></td><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7F3VtOWtppw/TpMINiEjbWI/AAAAAAAAiOo/Sk-epDaRbLI/s1600/IMG_7831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7F3VtOWtppw/TpMINiEjbWI/AAAAAAAAiOo/Sk-epDaRbLI/s200/IMG_7831.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Touchdown</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening sky at Ranganthittu</td></tr>
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Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com8Ranganthittu, State Highway 17, Karnataka, India12.4250211 76.653544412.3629941 76.5745804 12.4870481 76.7325084tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-86932632226767162322011-09-21T02:36:00.000+05:302011-09-21T20:01:52.128+05:30Experiments with my new lens - continued...Both of these are low light photos taken in bulb mode. Taken in a fully dark room and bulb mode, I used a flashlight to throw light where needed.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tanmaykm/6167452734/" title="Shadows of Time by tanmaykm, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6162/6167452734_034304eab3.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Shadows of Time"></a><br/>
Shadows of Time (ISO 100, F/22, 50mm, 27 seconds)
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tanmaykm/6167452448/" title="Colorful Disc by tanmaykm, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6154/6167452448_7a204ab386.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt="Colorful Disc"></a><br/>
Colorful Disc (ISO 100, F/22, 50mm, 84 seconds)
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<br/><br/>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com22Bengaluru, Karnataka, India12.9715987 77.594562712.724026199999999 77.2787057 13.2191712 77.910419699999991tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-78872071572481727002011-09-20T01:26:00.000+05:302011-09-20T01:26:24.855+05:30Experiments with my new lens<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I got myself a new lens last Saturday - Canon 55mm f/1.8 II. It's a very inexpensive lens with not so great build quality, but has very good sharpness. I picked it up mostly for low light photography and times when I need a great DOF. Here are few first trials with it.<br/><br/>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DsW5CDSOHv4/TndiwkkJEUI/AAAAAAAAiBg/5RBVTKgerj0/s1600/IMG_7561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DsW5CDSOHv4/TndiwkkJEUI/AAAAAAAAiBg/5RBVTKgerj0/s200/IMG_7561.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-swLIwEgX6Hw/Tndiwpj2VhI/AAAAAAAAiBo/7eGiWEhwKBQ/s1600/IMG_7562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-swLIwEgX6Hw/Tndiwpj2VhI/AAAAAAAAiBo/7eGiWEhwKBQ/s200/IMG_7562.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QfGuDF-4rlA/Tndiw6hMKRI/AAAAAAAAiBw/HDJLJQRzEl0/s1600/IMG_7563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QfGuDF-4rlA/Tndiw6hMKRI/AAAAAAAAiBw/HDJLJQRzEl0/s200/IMG_7563.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RWTX31UBhn8/Tndiw9ePRLI/AAAAAAAAiB4/DpdmHzaeUWI/s1600/IMG_7565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RWTX31UBhn8/Tndiw9ePRLI/AAAAAAAAiB4/DpdmHzaeUWI/s200/IMG_7565.JPG" /></a><br/><small>DOF test. Clockwise from top left: f/1.8, f/4, f/8, f/22 (click pictures to enlarge)</small></div>
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Low light tests:<br/>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tanmaykm/6163131810/" title="Red Dragon by tanmaykm, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6158/6163131810_8f52801c0a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Red Dragon"></a><br/>
<small>Dragon under red light. ISO 100. F/3.5. 5 sec.</small><br/><br/>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tanmaykm/6163131626/" title="Dragon against light by tanmaykm, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6167/6163131626_58f76b9dc3.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Dragon against light"></a><br/>
<small>Dragon against chinese lamp. ISO 100. F/3.5. 6 sec.</small><br/><br/>
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The below pictures were taken on a whim. Multiple shots of a withering flower, taken over an hour or so.
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I would appreciate your comments, and if you have used this lens it would be great if you can share your advise regarding this lens.<br/>
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I also take this opportunity to announce my new blog named <b>"wownder"</b>. Wownder stands for wow and wonder; it is an appreciation of the wonderful world around us by an enquiring mind. Any suggestions from you would be highly valuable to me. If you like it, do subscribe in to get the daily dose delivered directly to you. I won't say much here and would leave you with the blog URL and let you be the judge.<br/><br/><b>Please visit wownder at <a href="http://wownder.windforwings.com/">http://wownder.windforwings.com/</a> and tell me your reactions</b>.
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Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com3Bengaluru, Karnataka, India12.9715987 77.594562712.724026199999999 77.2787057 13.2191712 77.910419699999991tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-5437840664420186222011-09-02T22:05:00.000+05:302011-11-04T01:15:45.169+05:30Magnificent Belum Caves<p><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belum_Caves">Belum caves</a> are a network of underground caves in the village named Belum in Kurnool district, Andhra Pradesh. They are one of the largest caves in the Indian subcontinent, and so you can imagine their size. They lay ignored, being used as a garbage dump till some 20 years back when they were restored to their current glory through efforts from the local people in collaboration with the government. Belum, the name is probably derived from the word Bilum that means tunnels. There are apparently many places near that place where the tunnels open up to the ground.</p>
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<font size="+1"><b>The Caves:</b></font><br/>
The caves are a massive network of chambers. It was formed when an underground river washed away the soft limestone from the surrounding hard stones. The walls of the caves have deep marks that are the result of erosion caused by the river. There are many chambers in the network, each with a different and interesting name. Most of the chambers are not open for tourists. The few accessible places are artificially illuminated and aerated through pumped air from outside. The air vents and the pumps can be seen and heard if you are observant. The most beautiful of the lot was the chamber with stalactites in the shape of a banyan tree. <br/>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jVsuKbYbN0A/Tl9Dcf0vnoI/AAAAAAAAh4E/orZsQjSeXZg/s1600/DPP_0127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jVsuKbYbN0A/Tl9Dcf0vnoI/AAAAAAAAh4E/orZsQjSeXZg/s200/DPP_0127.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mdbMWL7sPME/Tl9Dcfy-DHI/AAAAAAAAh4M/Vgparhr6H_8/s1600/DPP_0248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mdbMWL7sPME/Tl9Dcfy-DHI/AAAAAAAAh4M/Vgparhr6H_8/s200/DPP_0248.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m7L6M_sfvdQ/Tl9DcnnyFdI/AAAAAAAAh4U/SxCLe0P10k4/s1600/DPP_0181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m7L6M_sfvdQ/Tl9DcnnyFdI/AAAAAAAAh4U/SxCLe0P10k4/s200/DPP_0181.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fY9FTrNPuF8/Tl9Dcy6UWAI/AAAAAAAAh4c/N_NWbiEOa3Y/s1600/DPP_0186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fY9FTrNPuF8/Tl9Dcy6UWAI/AAAAAAAAh4c/N_NWbiEOa3Y/s200/DPP_0186.JPG" /></a><br/>Clockwise from top left:<br/>Entrance to the caves, Tunnels inside the caves, <br/>Broken stalactites, The banyan tree formation<br/><small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div>
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Most of the parts open for the tourists are 'dead' (not forming stalactites/stalagmites any more). Sadly, most of the stalactites were broken off by visitors over the years. There is only one place we saw that was 'live' and water still dripped from the ceiling. However it had turned into a worshiping place thronged by people who are constantly touching the rocks. I wonder how can people be made aware to leave nature alone.
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QOH2Hk_K0Eo/Tl9EhvfN74I/AAAAAAAAh4s/HasIHgvz-Vo/s1600/DPP_0189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QOH2Hk_K0Eo/Tl9EhvfN74I/AAAAAAAAh4s/HasIHgvz-Vo/s200/DPP_0189.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tc29O6c3IYE/Tl9EhT9KkeI/AAAAAAAAh4k/ODCZIte7API/s1600/DPP_0188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tc29O6c3IYE/Tl9EhT9KkeI/AAAAAAAAh4k/ODCZIte7API/s200/DPP_0188.JPG" /></a><br/>Where the caves are still alive. Water dripping (left), the worshiping place (right).<br/><small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br/>
To explore the caves, we had taken the help of a guide (Mr. Nagamani. Phone: +91 9441375615), who was pretty good. He helped us see a few unique places and took us through a couple of tunnels which we otherwise wouldn't have discovered. I do not know if he still has the phone number though.
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<font size="+1"><b>Approach & places en-route:</b></font><br/>
Belum is around 320 km from Bangalore. The route goes from Bangalore through Devanhalli(NH7), Chikkabalapur, Bagepalli, Anantpur, Tadipatri to Belum. Roads were good for most of the stretch as we were either on the national or the state highway. Not many fuel stations on this road, it is better to start with a full tank. <br/><br/>
We started in the morning and took a leisurely drive, stopping by at two interesting places en-route - the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lepakshi">Lepakshi Temple</a>, and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penukonda">Penukonda Fort</a>. Lepakshi has many carved structures and beautiful paintings on the roofs of the temple.
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t_aDSL8Xh7w/Tl84RROL7vI/AAAAAAAAh3s/QmDFWHAJr4A/s1600/DPP_0064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t_aDSL8Xh7w/Tl84RROL7vI/AAAAAAAAh3s/QmDFWHAJr4A/s200/DPP_0064.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7CzYh09fmko/Tl84RV5WRnI/AAAAAAAAh3k/ochfTbPTrbQ/s1600/DPP_0049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7CzYh09fmko/Tl84RV5WRnI/AAAAAAAAh3k/ochfTbPTrbQ/s200/DPP_0049.JPG" /></a><br/>Lepakshi Temple <small>(click on pictures to enlarge)</small></div>
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The Penukonda Fort was in use by the Vijayanagara kings for some time. We however could visit only the summer palace (Gagana Mahal) on the way to the Penukonda Fort. It was late and the fort was no longer accessible. The Gagana Mahal has a tunnel (that the caretaker showed us) that apparently goes till the fort. The Penukonda Fort and nearby monuments require a full day by itself.
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--aeK-1SGx0Q/Tl86v-eEXdI/AAAAAAAAh30/adM3K9UKR3w/s1600/DPP_0093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--aeK-1SGx0Q/Tl86v-eEXdI/AAAAAAAAh30/adM3K9UKR3w/s200/DPP_0093.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S9P3y6d_0Zg/Tl86vyZqhNI/AAAAAAAAh38/871hLTA9IMg/s1600/DPP_0094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S9P3y6d_0Zg/Tl86vyZqhNI/AAAAAAAAh38/871hLTA9IMg/s200/DPP_0094.JPG" /></a><br/>Ganaga Manal - corridors (left) and the tunnel entrance (right) <br/><small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div>
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I guess the driving time without any stops would be around 5 to 6 hours till Anantpur. The road from Anantpur to Belum is not that great. Enroute we crossed <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kadapa">Kadapa</a>, a city famous for the Kadapa stones - a kind of black limestone / slate stone.
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<font size="+1"><b>Stay & Food:</b></font><br/>
Till Anantpur there are a few (and I mean a few) highway restaurants but no good hotel to stay. The market street outside Lepakshi has some decent places for lunch, but nothing near Penukonda fort. I would suggest having food at or before Lepakshi while driving to Anantpur.<br/><br/>
There are not many places to stay near the caves, so the best place to get a decent hotel is at <a href="http://wikitravel.org/en/Anantapur">Anantpur</a>. We stayed at hotel Saptagiri at Anantpur (tariff around Rs.1000). It was clean, spacious and had good large parking space for vehicles. There are not many good restaurants around, at least near the place we stayed. We found a few not-too-bad ones on Subash road where we had dinner. But there were lots of fresh fruits available with road side vendors, mostly delicious figs (anjeer). We feasted on them to our fill.<br/><br/>
At Belum caves, there is only one eating place - a canteen that serves vegetarian meals. We had our lunch there; though the food was all right, it was not all that clean when we visited (lots of flies around). The place is not much populated, so no other shops can be found nearby. My advise would be to carry your own food here when you are visiting.
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<b>Update:</b> If you have more time, you can combine these places with a much larger tour of historical places near Bangalore and Hyderabad. Check out my series of posts about a similar trip here: <a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html"><b>Trip Down Memory Lane</b></a>.
</p>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-15300986618500404902011-08-23T23:51:00.000+05:302011-08-23T23:51:54.832+05:30Leh, Ladakh : Few Thousand WordsThese are few of many pictures I took in my recent trip to Leh, Ladakh. I liked these snaps and each speaks a thousand words to me when I look at them. But some of them were abstract for the motive of my travelogue post. So here they are as a separate slideshow and hope you like them.<br />
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If you like these and want to see more or read the travelogue, here they are in two parts:<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/08/manali-to-leh-bitten-by-bullet.html">Manali to Leh : Bitten by the Bullet</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/08/leh-ladakh-beautiful-high-altitude.html">Leh, Ladakh : Beautiful High Altitude Desert</a></li>
</ul><br />
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Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com8Ladākh Range, Jammu & Kashmir34 78-0.9946054999999987 18.234375 68.9946055 137.765625tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-82907296132003206402011-08-20T21:44:00.000+05:302011-08-20T21:44:53.243+05:30Leh, Ladakh : Beautiful High Altitude DesertThis is a continuation from my previous post: <a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/08/manali-to-leh-bitten-by-bullet.html">Manali to Leh : Bitten by the Bullet</a> <br />
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At this time of the year, Leh is teeming with tourists from abroad. Most of the visitors use Leh as the base for trekking on to nearby mountains. Very few Indian tourists reach here. Come on Indian adventure lovers! Native tongue of local people is Ladakhi (similar to Tibetan, they say). We learnt just a few words - Jullay means Hi! (locals usualy just say Ju for short), Tso means lake and La means mountain. That was easy - so many Tso and La around ;) .<br />
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<font size="+1"><b>The high altitude desert: </b></font><br />
Leh caught me a bit off guard. I had heard of it being a high altitude desert, but I had never really seen one. My highest altitude experience was Switzerland, but I had seen it as quite green. Leh was really dry, the days were warm, the sunshine was piercing and vegetation was not abundant. I was thinking, will the Antartica be something similar? Annual precipitation at Leh is just 90mm, while that of Antartica is 200mm. Since it never rains much, people build mud houses with flat roofs and unprotected walls. A few hours of mild rain damages the walls and severe rain can cause real havoc (like <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2010_Leh_floods">what happened last year</a>, 6th August 2010). In fact the day we reached Leh was the very same day of last year when rains wrecked havoc in Leh. Most of the population in the city is into tourism. There are abundant apple and apricot trees all over the city. At the outskirts, farmers grow (can grow) only one crop per year. Local farmers sell both fresh and dried fruits and vegetables on the streets near the city taxi stand.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qMhMjKxNY78/Tk_A1qwnNbI/AAAAAAAAh04/BxjdC0dmMww/s1600/Leh_Street.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qMhMjKxNY78/Tk_A1qwnNbI/AAAAAAAAh04/BxjdC0dmMww/s200/Leh_Street.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bMV6BdzlETI/Tk_A2APcJRI/AAAAAAAAh1Q/ClGUIgme9Pk/s1600/Leh_Food_Rista.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bMV6BdzlETI/Tk_A2APcJRI/AAAAAAAAh1Q/ClGUIgme9Pk/s200/Leh_Food_Rista.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MFCv2o9Wtjw/Tk_A1xoGRtI/AAAAAAAAh1A/lPxoOO34t2g/s1600/Leh_Shop.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MFCv2o9Wtjw/Tk_A1xoGRtI/AAAAAAAAh1A/lPxoOO34t2g/s200/Leh_Shop.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oKQOo37QaMc/Tk_A14vE5-I/AAAAAAAAh1I/B_4ImfEHNcE/s1600/Leh_Dry_Fruits.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oKQOo37QaMc/Tk_A14vE5-I/AAAAAAAAh1I/B_4ImfEHNcE/s200/Leh_Dry_Fruits.jpeg" /></a><br/>Clockwise from top left: A residential street, Yummy local rista (meatballs), An interesting handicraft shop, Dry fruits vendor.<br/><small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Monasteries and Palaces: </b></font><br />
We spent few days in and around Leh, visiting the various monasteries and palaces in Leh. Shey, a city just before Leh on the Manali-Leh highway has an ancient palace - the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shey_Monastery">Shey Palace</a>. The palace was the summer retreat of the kings of Ladakh and also has an adjacent monastery. Further down the road, there's an even bigger and more beautiful monastery, the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thikse_Monastery">Thiksey monastery</a>. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pcFQnbhwlqk/Tk-6NCy8AnI/AAAAAAAAh0Y/ErdF-cLnE9s/s1600/Leh_Thiksey.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pcFQnbhwlqk/Tk-6NCy8AnI/AAAAAAAAh0Y/ErdF-cLnE9s/s200/Leh_Thiksey.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pw4OKjPeN0g/Tk-6NcmqUOI/AAAAAAAAh0g/4dYiVzrBVAo/s1600/Shey_Palace.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pw4OKjPeN0g/Tk-6NcmqUOI/AAAAAAAAh0g/4dYiVzrBVAo/s200/Shey_Palace.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8XgPMpYCUlw/Tk-6Nj8XoII/AAAAAAAAh0w/n7eUUKCVYUI/s1600/Leh_Thiksey_Buddha.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8XgPMpYCUlw/Tk-6Nj8XoII/AAAAAAAAh0w/n7eUUKCVYUI/s200/Leh_Thiksey_Buddha.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bn7N-6XyMMY/Tk-6NvvoesI/AAAAAAAAh0o/i67r7e_R7qE/s1600/Shey_Palace_Buddha.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bn7N-6XyMMY/Tk-6NvvoesI/AAAAAAAAh0o/i67r7e_R7qE/s200/Shey_Palace_Buddha.jpeg" /></a><br/>Top: Thiksey monastery and Sheh Palace<br/>Bottom: Buddhas at Thiksey monastry and Sheh Palace.<br/><small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
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Leh has the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leh_Palace">Leh Palace</a> used by the erstwhile kings of Ladakh - the Namgyals. The palace was in the process of being renovated with newly plastered walls and wooden doors & windows. Then there's the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shanti_Stupa">Shanti Stupa</a> build by Japanese and Ladakhis recently in 1991. The wikipedia article on it has some explanations of the various murals on the stupa.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RWZ2OSYPlQk/Tk_TiNG2e9I/AAAAAAAAh2Y/MPFnPp0Co44/s1600/Leh_Palace_1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RWZ2OSYPlQk/Tk_TiNG2e9I/AAAAAAAAh2Y/MPFnPp0Co44/s200/Leh_Palace_1.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WEIXoZzwcYI/Tk_TiYlnEAI/AAAAAAAAh2g/UY0Jz99NLg8/s1600/Leh_ShantiStupa.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WEIXoZzwcYI/Tk_TiYlnEAI/AAAAAAAAh2g/UY0Jz99NLg8/s200/Leh_ShantiStupa.jpeg" /></a> <br/>Leh palace (left) and The shanti stupa (right)<br/><small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Indian Army Hall of Fame: </b></font><br />
Near the city there's an Indian Army hall of fame showcasing glory of the Army in wars fought. The most recent war was the one fought at Kargil against insurgents from Pakistan. There were exhibits of weapons, ration cards, Pakistani army ID cards seized from the opposing side. It was an eerie feeling holding them in our hands, while knowing that their owner probably died in the war holding the same weapons. There was a very emotional letter on display, written by an Indian soldier to his father the day before going to fight in the front, fully aware of the situation and knowing that it might be his last day. In fact, sadly, it was.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1CSo35Pe_6E/Tk-1AWDxOEI/AAAAAAAAhzQ/g51qMkX7_Kk/s1600/Leh_HOF_2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1CSo35Pe_6E/Tk-1AWDxOEI/AAAAAAAAhzQ/g51qMkX7_Kk/s200/Leh_HOF_2.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gueXXmcofzc/Tk-1AOwf-iI/AAAAAAAAhzI/LvooXDvWQTo/s1600/Leh_HOF_1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gueXXmcofzc/Tk-1AOwf-iI/AAAAAAAAhzI/LvooXDvWQTo/s200/Leh_HOF_1.jpeg" /></a><br/>Indian Army Hall of Fame. <small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Khardungla Pass: </b></font><br />
We drove up to the mighty <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khardung_La">Khardungla Pass</a>, the highest motor-able pass in the world. The Siachen border base camp is just around 150km from the pass. Indian army trains and acclimatizes its soldiers at Khardungla (North Pulu) before they go on to the Siachen border.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3PPUcEp7p-M/Tk-1a217ItI/AAAAAAAAhzg/mQWhIaCOjs0/s1600/Khardungla_Pass2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3PPUcEp7p-M/Tk-1a217ItI/AAAAAAAAhzg/mQWhIaCOjs0/s200/Khardungla_Pass2.jpeg" /> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3C4dsC17drE/Tk-1ajx8AKI/AAAAAAAAhzY/Jabzgdhkw3E/s1600/Khardungla_Pass1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3C4dsC17drE/Tk-1ajx8AKI/AAAAAAAAhzY/Jabzgdhkw3E/s200/Khardungla_Pass1.jpeg" /></a><br/>Khardungla Pass. <small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Pangong Tso: </b></font><br />
The most beautiful sight was to be seen at the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pangong_Tso">Pangong Tso</a> (lake). It is a huge lake, most of it in Tibet, with pristine blue-green waters. It is a sight only to be experienced which no photograph can match. It recently became famous after being picturized in the popular Bollywood movie, "The Three Idiots". There were only a few tents there to stay, and a couple of hotels that serve lunch and snacks for the day tourists.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnx5dEQj6no/Tk-3DD-fC0I/AAAAAAAAhzo/dMsR6JNIXR0/s1600/Leh_Pangong1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnx5dEQj6no/Tk-3DD-fC0I/AAAAAAAAhzo/dMsR6JNIXR0/s200/Leh_Pangong1.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CitEOYuuwYM/Tk-3DT_NnyI/AAAAAAAAhzw/cWgvNP7c2l8/s1600/Leh_Pangong2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CitEOYuuwYM/Tk-3DT_NnyI/AAAAAAAAhzw/cWgvNP7c2l8/s200/Leh_Pangong2.jpeg" /></a><br/>Pangong Lake. And are those the three Idiots? <small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Monastery Festival: </b></font><br />
One of the days we attended a religious festival at one of the monasteries (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemis_Monastery">the Hemis monastery</a>). Though we could not understand much of the ceremony, the dances were interesting to watch. There was a significant local population there as well, particularly the elderly with their full traditional dresses on this occasion. And one more evening we slipped into another nearby hotel to secretly watch a traditional dance demonstration that the hotel had organized for its guests. The announcer there fortunately explained a bit about the dance and the occasion in which it is performed, and it was a bit more understandable.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dWLLjbtlEzY/Tk-4SjrlDhI/AAAAAAAAh0A/ODiYBfZ3sLs/s1600/Monastery_Festival4.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dWLLjbtlEzY/Tk-4SjrlDhI/AAAAAAAAh0A/ODiYBfZ3sLs/s200/Monastery_Festival4.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-thx-awGO5gQ/Tk-4zxMQVLI/AAAAAAAAh0Q/Qq5Lh8wK64E/s1600/Monastery_Festival3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-thx-awGO5gQ/Tk-4zxMQVLI/AAAAAAAAh0Q/Qq5Lh8wK64E/s200/Monastery_Festival3.jpeg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iXoAlqSud0Y/Tk-4SrlifuI/AAAAAAAAhz4/BEujGOPIsww/s1600/Monastery_Festival2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iXoAlqSud0Y/Tk-4SrlifuI/AAAAAAAAhz4/BEujGOPIsww/s200/Monastery_Festival2.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GUJ_2b5S-VI/Tk-4zheMvdI/AAAAAAAAh0I/a-SpTdmJH6I/s1600/Monastery_Festival1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GUJ_2b5S-VI/Tk-4zheMvdI/AAAAAAAAh0I/a-SpTdmJH6I/s200/Monastery_Festival1.jpeg" /></a><br/><small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Local Wild Life & Plants</b></font><br />
Apple and apricot trees are there in many back yards of houses in the city. Some of the apples were turning red during our stay. The place we stayed had both apricot and apple trees and the people managing the guest house were kind enough to let us have them often. Apricots varieties came in many colors - yellow to deep red!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VmvgZijcYig/Tk_J1K4vUsI/AAAAAAAAh1g/qN4cooSHaiE/s1600/Leh_Plant_Apricot.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VmvgZijcYig/Tk_J1K4vUsI/AAAAAAAAh1g/qN4cooSHaiE/s200/Leh_Plant_Apricot.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5a_dN5kTmEs/Tk_J1AMQjJI/AAAAAAAAh1Y/6ZHwLpIwq1Q/s1600/Leh_Plant_Apple.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5a_dN5kTmEs/Tk_J1AMQjJI/AAAAAAAAh1Y/6ZHwLpIwq1Q/s200/Leh_Plant_Apple.jpeg" /></a><br/><small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
Walking in the streets of Leh early in the morning is relaxing with birds chirping all around you. Sparrows and robins abound. There are many more I could not identify. There was one interesting bird with a crown that I gathered later was called the Common <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoopoe">Hoopoe</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RsazVvrV7BA/Tk_PXAPJv5I/AAAAAAAAh1w/ixl8Q-NBn08/s1600/Leh_Bird_Hoopoe.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RsazVvrV7BA/Tk_PXAPJv5I/AAAAAAAAh1w/ixl8Q-NBn08/s200/Leh_Bird_Hoopoe.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nN-odRTW8dk/Tk_PWwQDTuI/AAAAAAAAh1o/qgteTaK8WZ4/s1600/Leh_Bird_Sparrow.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nN-odRTW8dk/Tk_PWwQDTuI/AAAAAAAAh1o/qgteTaK8WZ4/s200/Leh_Bird_Sparrow.jpeg" /></a><br/>A common Hoopoe (left) and the ubiquitous Sparrow (right)<br/><small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
Among animals, horses and donkeys can be seen in abundance by the road side. There are apparently snow leopards high up in the mountains and they sometimes come down till some of the passes during the winter. The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dzo">Dzo</a> is another animal seen. It is a cross between Yak and the domestic cattle. The male Dzo is used in fields, and females for milk. Another curious animal found here is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmot">Marmot</a>. They look like cute giant squirrel and live in burrows in the ground. Farmers know them well as they sometimes dig up and damage crops! The ones we met by the road side near Pangong lake stood up on their hind legs and took a piece of bread from our hands. We also saw the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pashmina">Pashmina</a> goats, from whose wool the famous Pashmina shawls are made.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2CtJpTx8D38/Tk_QJ0ZQ0QI/AAAAAAAAh2Q/icgXHLgJ4yY/s1600/Leh_Animal_Marmot.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2CtJpTx8D38/Tk_QJ0ZQ0QI/AAAAAAAAh2Q/icgXHLgJ4yY/s200/Leh_Animal_Marmot.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eh72-xQJVPw/Tk_QJQXDMjI/AAAAAAAAh14/948BC4nGpL0/s1600/Leh_Aninal_Horses.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eh72-xQJVPw/Tk_QJQXDMjI/AAAAAAAAh14/948BC4nGpL0/s200/Leh_Aninal_Horses.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bvfPsmetV-s/Tk_QJuuZV-I/AAAAAAAAh2A/dRvLYqteh9k/s1600/Leh_Animal_Tzo.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bvfPsmetV-s/Tk_QJuuZV-I/AAAAAAAAh2A/dRvLYqteh9k/s200/Leh_Animal_Tzo.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ko36Cs8adI8/Tk_QJ6a87lI/AAAAAAAAh2I/OPaxAnoFcD4/s1600/Leh_Animal_Pashmina.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ko36Cs8adI8/Tk_QJ6a87lI/AAAAAAAAh2I/OPaxAnoFcD4/s200/Leh_Animal_Pashmina.jpeg" /></a><br/>Clockwise from top left: Marmot, Horses grazing, Dzo, Pashmina goat<br/><small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Back to Bangalore: </b></font><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tjGwsERJAvg/Tk_YWxxZteI/AAAAAAAAh2w/q1nL6YvOM9k/s1600/Leh_Flight0001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tjGwsERJAvg/Tk_YWxxZteI/AAAAAAAAh2w/q1nL6YvOM9k/s200/Leh_Flight0001.JPG" /></a></div>The Leh airport is small but looked efficient and secure. In spite of the crowd, there was not much queue. <br/><br/>And my post won't be complete unless I mention the beautiful view of the Himalayan peaks we saw from the flight on our way back from Leh to Delhi.<br/><br/><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Some more links & information: </b></font><br />
<ul><li>A useful blog post on planning a trip to Leh: <a href="http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/travel-guide-for-manali-leh-highway/">http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/travel-guide-for-manali-leh-highway/</a></li>
<li>Hotel we stayed at in Manali: <a href="http://hotelibexmanali.com/">IBEX Hotel</a></li>
<li>Bike rental we used at Manali: <a href="http://www.royalmototouring.com/">Anu Auto Works</a></li>
<li>Another good bike rental at Manali: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Hardevmotors-manali/103661409723412">Hardev Motors</a>. Contact Mr.Sonu Rajput.</li>
<li>Bike rental we used at Leh: Ladakh Yeti Travels. Contact: Tsewang. Tel: +91-9622997541, +91-9419551849. They can also organize local adventure sports and sight seeing.</li>
<li>List of <a href="http://leh.nic.in/WHERE%20TO%20STAY.htm">guest houses at Leh (price may be outdated)</a></li>
<li>Guest house we stayed at Leh: Kalam Guest House, Fort Road. Contact Mr.Singh Tamang (known as Singhe). Tel: +91-1982-253490, +91-9906988753, +91-0729870663 </li>
<li>Local cuisine to try: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wazwan">Kashmiri</a> (we tried Rista and Kabab), or <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Tibetan_cuisine">Tibetan</a> (we tried Thukpa, Thenthuk and Momos).</li>
<li>I used a phone app called "<a href="http://www.trip-journal.com/">Trip Journal</a>" to keep my travel notes and pictures organized. I found it useful! A notepad at your fingertips to record thoughts, emotions, information any time.</li>
</ul><small>Disclaimer: The above links and contact details are just what we used. We did not have a bad experience with them, but there may be better providers. I do not endorse them in any way beyond this.</small><br />
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Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com20Leh, Jammu & Kashmir, India34.178028 77.5814609999999934.131209999999996 77.532966499999986 34.224846 77.6299555tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-7007016069397907372011-08-19T20:55:00.002+05:302011-08-23T23:55:53.247+05:30Manali to Leh : Bitten by the Bullet<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aa1mYynFW8o/Tk1V_64DAmI/AAAAAAAAhwI/c2DUAA0bkjY/s1600/Manali_Bike.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aa1mYynFW8o/Tk1V_64DAmI/AAAAAAAAhwI/c2DUAA0bkjY/s200/Manali_Bike.jpeg" /></a></div>Leh emerged in my travel radar around 3-4 years back when I started hearing about friends and colleagues visiting. Many were flying till Leh and hiring cabs to go around there, but some also rode bikes to Leh. One person I knew had once sent his bike from Bangalore all the way till Delhi to ride it to Leh. Last year another person went riding from Manali to Leh and was absolutely smitten by the trip. The bikers mostly spoke about the bike ride. The non bikers displayed their photographs, which were also impressive. I liked traveling, but I've never really been a 'biker'. My perspective here will instead be of someone who also enjoys riding among many other things.<br />
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The Manali - Leh highway is snow free and opens only from June to October. For us, July - August seemed to be a good time for the trip, more sun and less rain. Discussions for the trip started almost 6 months back starting with forming our group, applying leaves, reading and listening to people's trip experiences. Then came the task of talking to bike/car rentals and purchasing essentials for the trip. Here's what we took:<br />
<br />
<ul><li>4 bikes - 500cc RE x 1, 350cc RE x 2, 180cc Pulsar x 1. From <a href="http://www.royalmototouring.com/index.php">Anu Auto Works</a> at Manali. Friendly people. Good mechanics. Trouble free bikes, though not in the best condition. We didn't take the packaged trips, just the bikes. Charges per day: Rs.1200 for 500cc RE, Rs.1000 for 350cc RE and Rs.900 for Pulsar, Rs.1500 for a mechanic. Pay 50% advance to reserve, remaining on pickup. Bike drop off at Leh costs Rs.5000 per bike. If not taking mechanic, pay security deposit Rs.10000 per bike and collect it on return.</li>
<li>One car (Innova). A few of us did not want to ride bikes, so we also booked a 4-wheeler for them. It would also help us carry luggage, and for us first timers be a safety net. Cost Rs.17000 for 4 days.</li>
<li>Rain coat, jacket, waterproof gloves, balaclava: picked up from Bangalore (commercial street and cramster). Rubber boots, medicines, small oxygen can, fuel can, tying rope, chocolates: picked up at Manali. Manali also has good cheap shoes available, in case you want to use one just for this trip.</li>
<li>For the photography enthusiasts, we had borrowed and bought among ourselves a wide angle lens, CPL and UV filters, and a car 12V inverter to charge the batteries (<a href="http://www.belkin.com/au/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=291646">Belkin AC Anywhere</a>).</li>
</ul><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Start from Bangalore:</b></font><br />
<br />
We had booked an early morning flight to Delhi, to give ample buffer time for our evening bus to Manali. The flight was in fact delayed by 3hrs, but we only had to give up the fun and merrymaking planned at Delhi. The new and renovated Bangalore and Delhi airports were relaxing. Delhi metro was great, it took us directly from the airport to Connaught Place from where the bus was starting in just 15 mins. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9rsjsxIZkVw/Tk02MyoCsLI/AAAAAAAAhuw/N1F81pf3tDs/s1600/2011-07-30_09-12-03_390.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9rsjsxIZkVw/Tk02MyoCsLI/AAAAAAAAhuw/N1F81pf3tDs/s200/2011-07-30_09-12-03_390.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VZuZlJ0Ug3c/Tk02NKPgW8I/AAAAAAAAhu4/4bz3u6qqD1U/s1600/2011-07-30_15-22-13_659.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VZuZlJ0Ug3c/Tk02NKPgW8I/AAAAAAAAhu4/4bz3u6qqD1U/s200/2011-07-30_15-22-13_659.jpeg" /></a><br />
Bangalore Airport (left) and Delhi Metro (right)<br />
<small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
The bus was bad - never book buses from Heera Himachal Holidays. It was noisy, the AC was almost not working and water leaked from the AC vents. The bus stopped once in the night for food at a dhaba (delicious chicken dish and roti), and once more in the morning for tea (scenic place, dirty toilets).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DIhC6Gwwd58/Tk03RrHzbCI/AAAAAAAAhvI/8J5Lv-l7dtc/s1600/2011-07-30_16-15-33_625.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DIhC6Gwwd58/Tk03RrHzbCI/AAAAAAAAhvI/8J5Lv-l7dtc/s200/2011-07-30_16-15-33_625.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i_G2QqXoShM/Tk03ReAijBI/AAAAAAAAhvA/ENUlFzuGdZI/s1600/2011-07-30_18-40-53_350.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i_G2QqXoShM/Tk03ReAijBI/AAAAAAAAhvA/ENUlFzuGdZI/s200/2011-07-30_18-40-53_350.jpeg" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><b>Left:</b> Auto ride to bus pickup point.<br />
<b>Right:</b> Patched up roof of our bus. For watching the stars in the night. They know you won't get any sleep.</div></div><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Manali:</b></font><br />
<br />
When we reached Manali in the morning, we were surrounded by touts offering us hotel stay. After rejecting a few nearby unreasonably expensive hotels, we were finally taken by a tout with a taxi to a hotel at Mall Road. It was near to the market place and the bike rental which fitted our requirement. After a heavy brunch, we headed towards the bike rental to take a look at the bikes. They were still preparing the bikes, so we were to come back in the evening to pick them up. We spent the rest of the day purchasing stuff in the market.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gPV0l1RqDPI/Tk5_qsf46YI/AAAAAAAAhzA/VjxX--zkNtQ/s1600/Manali_Streets_5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gPV0l1RqDPI/Tk5_qsf46YI/AAAAAAAAhzA/VjxX--zkNtQ/s200/Manali_Streets_5.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k5BjCceG6hs/Tk5_pyYSKhI/AAAAAAAAhyo/Rc-EZ8U_JSQ/s1600/Manali_Streets_2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k5BjCceG6hs/Tk5_pyYSKhI/AAAAAAAAhyo/Rc-EZ8U_JSQ/s200/Manali_Streets_2.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gsjOWk_FAtY/Tk5_qLTZ4dI/AAAAAAAAhyw/kTnpTHdxM70/s1600/Manali_Streets_3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gsjOWk_FAtY/Tk5_qLTZ4dI/AAAAAAAAhyw/kTnpTHdxM70/s200/Manali_Streets_3.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gT7_eTXIac0/Tk5_qbtYKNI/AAAAAAAAhy4/HgSTer6JaLY/s1600/Manali_Streets_4.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gT7_eTXIac0/Tk5_qbtYKNI/AAAAAAAAhy4/HgSTer6JaLY/s200/Manali_Streets_4.jpeg" /></a><br />
Streets of Manali <small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
Late evening was when we finally signed the papers and took the bikes. Filled them up at a nearby petrol bunk before going for dinner and bed.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GBmNR-zuyjE/Tk08-etqyuI/AAAAAAAAhvY/22GOO7fAhAc/s1600/Manali_SigningBikePapers.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="239" width="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GBmNR-zuyjE/Tk08-etqyuI/AAAAAAAAhvY/22GOO7fAhAc/s320/Manali_SigningBikePapers.jpeg" /></a><br />
Signing bike papers at Anu Anuto Works</div><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Manali to Keylong via Rothang Pass:</b></font><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qH6Fbkw7RzU/Tk1PhrzQ2EI/AAAAAAAAhvw/XsPbQsVUsqQ/s1600/ShoesOnHire.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qH6Fbkw7RzU/Tk1PhrzQ2EI/AAAAAAAAhvw/XsPbQsVUsqQ/s200/ShoesOnHire.jpeg" /></a></div>Left: Shoes on hire at a shop.<br />
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With an early breakfast of bread omelet and tea from the push cart vendor in front of our hotel, we set off for our first destination - Keylong, via our first exciting ride over Rothang Pass. Some of us who didn't had breakfast had it at a place on the way. The initial stretch of the journey was smooth, till we encountered a mile long traffic jam before Rothang Pass. The jam was also an opportunity to socialize, after all, all of us there had the same destination and the same worries. We met a troupe of Mahindra Scorpios participating in an expedition till Srinagar, and a couple of bikers from Israel and an army convoy passing through who called their headquarters asking not to send any more vehicles for the day. We on the bikes could squeeze past the four wheelers easily. Further up the road began to take the form of wet slush. The only hope of crossing such stretches was to ride on the tire tracks of trucks passing by ahead, sometimes more than a feet deep. In spite of that, the ride was not easy. Clutch plates often became hot and the bike would refuse to pull. The only option then was to push the bike to the side and wait till things cooled down. After a grueling hour or so in the mud and slush we finally hit dry road with occasional ice walls flanking the road side just before the peak.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nMbKUxsawCU/Tk1N0tV_dVI/AAAAAAAAhvo/RipihWZWi_o/s1600/Rothang_SomewhatBetterRoads.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nMbKUxsawCU/Tk1N0tV_dVI/AAAAAAAAhvo/RipihWZWi_o/s200/Rothang_SomewhatBetterRoads.jpeg" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TuAde-Bdu9c/Tk1N0ZKl_HI/AAAAAAAAhvg/XoeGqo8wU1Q/s1600/Rothang_Ice.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="150" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TuAde-Bdu9c/Tk1N0ZKl_HI/AAAAAAAAhvg/XoeGqo8wU1Q/s200/Rothang_Ice.jpeg" /></a><br />
<b>Left:</b> A relatively better section of the road to Rothang Pass.<br />
<b>Right:</b> Occasional ice walls by the road side.</div><br />
I must mention this thing I discovered about riding this day - the bonding between the rider and the bike. None of the bikes we had picked up were in real great shape. But once we rode them through such roads, each of us always felt most comfortable with the bike we chose in the first place. Of course there were the infrequent easy-road riders for whom the bike didn't matter. But once you cross a difficult terrain with a bike, you become so acquainted with its nuances that for the next difficult terrain you feel most comfortable with the same bike. It becomes somewhat like the wife.<br />
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Anyway, the flat top of Rothang Pass had many shops serving instant noodles and tea. There were horse rides, mostly from tourists from Manali who came to visit just the Rothang Pass. We had a relaxing wait there sipping tea and sharing few noodle dishes amongst us while we waited for our cab to appear.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rrMRi7F-FLg/Tk1QzfgJWrI/AAAAAAAAhv4/pjRaAAiCyz0/s1600/Rothang_Atop.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rrMRi7F-FLg/Tk1QzfgJWrI/AAAAAAAAhv4/pjRaAAiCyz0/s200/Rothang_Atop.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T7v3PwXQ-KA/Tk1QzYv5SjI/AAAAAAAAhwA/tdF9JX927Fg/s1600/Rothang_After.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T7v3PwXQ-KA/Tk1QzYv5SjI/AAAAAAAAhwA/tdF9JX927Fg/s200/Rothang_After.jpeg" /></a><br />
Atop Rothang Pass (left), Road after Rothang (right)<br />
<small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
The remaining journey till Keylong was fast and easy. It pales so much in comparison to Rothang Pass that I don't seem to remember much of it now even if I make conscious effort to recollect. I remember having stopped at a place on the way where food was available - rice, dal and egg omelet. We reached Keylong well before the evening and checked in to one of the guest houses right next to the bus stand. It was a new construction, clean, comfortable and reasonably priced.<br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Keylong:</b></font><br />
<br />
We did not get a chance to spend a day at Manali to acclimatize ourselves to the heights because Rothang Pass closes every Tuesday for road repairs. We would have had to spend 2 days if we had waited. Instead we started a day earlier from Manali and decided to spend a day at Keylong before proceeding further.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-71AZSn5BA48/Tk1YRtoDHOI/AAAAAAAAhwQ/276brbzvIAQ/s1600/Keylong_Scene1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-71AZSn5BA48/Tk1YRtoDHOI/AAAAAAAAhwQ/276brbzvIAQ/s200/Keylong_Scene1.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lBojWqZrZeA/Tk1YRpXxlBI/AAAAAAAAhwY/OUKL-kLvit0/s1600/Keylong_Scene2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lBojWqZrZeA/Tk1YRpXxlBI/AAAAAAAAhwY/OUKL-kLvit0/s200/Keylong_Scene2.jpeg" /></a> <br />
View from our guest house (left) Night at Keylong (right)<br />
<small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keylong">Keylong</a>, though looks and feels dull is in fact a pretty important place. It is the administrative capital of Lahaul and Spiti districts of Himachal Pradesh. The famous <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kardang_Monastery">Kardang Monastry</a> is nearby and so is the confluence of the rivers Chandra and Bhaga forming the Chandrabhaga river while ultimately becomes the more well known <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chenab">Chenab</a> river further down.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BHTv5KZ9NeA/Tk5p-qrYGYI/AAAAAAAAhwo/TBmqliyD4N4/s1600/Keylong_Street2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BHTv5KZ9NeA/Tk5p-qrYGYI/AAAAAAAAhwo/TBmqliyD4N4/s200/Keylong_Street2.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QzBOsnADuDA/Tk5p-e0JSDI/AAAAAAAAhwg/EoJACHjNPfs/s1600/Keylong_Street1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QzBOsnADuDA/Tk5p-e0JSDI/AAAAAAAAhwg/EoJACHjNPfs/s200/Keylong_Street1.jpeg" /></a><br />
Keylong main market (left). A snacks shop at the market (right).<br />
<small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small><br />
</div><br />
During our stay at Keylong we visited the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kardang_Monastery">Kardang Monastry</a>, Chandra and Bhaga confluence at Tandi and had the opportunity to watch a local function being held by the townsfolk in honor of monks of nearby districts who had arrived to attend a Buddhist religious conference. We also visited the local hospital as one of us got some altitude sickness. That's when we discovered that the town did not have a single medicine shop; their only source of medicines and treatment is the single government run hospital in the town! The night sky from Keylong was so clear that we could watch the milky way, something that's not visible from cities any more.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XnQLOauTZJs/Tk5tsW3zqfI/AAAAAAAAhww/zKZmXRXL2II/s1600/KardangMonastery1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XnQLOauTZJs/Tk5tsW3zqfI/AAAAAAAAhww/zKZmXRXL2II/s200/KardangMonastery1.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-64dslGIXCXM/Tk5tsupstmI/AAAAAAAAhw4/pidpxSjevL0/s1600/KardangMonastery2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-64dslGIXCXM/Tk5tsupstmI/AAAAAAAAhw4/pidpxSjevL0/s200/KardangMonastery2.jpeg" /></a><br />
Kardang Monastery <small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Keylong to Sarchu:</b></font><br />
<br />
After a day a Keylong we started for Sarchu, our next destination. On the way we passed through <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jispa">Jispa</a>. It was an awesomely beautiful valley just about 30km from Keylong. If you prefer to stay amidst nature rather than people, then book your stay at Jispa instead of Keylong. I mention booking because I could see only one hotel at Jispa, and only a few tents. We had our breakfast a short while after crossing Jispa.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3OirE_AnpVU/Tk5xsJ0WylI/AAAAAAAAhxI/6OhG8RihRY4/s1600/After_Jispa_Breakfast_View.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3OirE_AnpVU/Tk5xsJ0WylI/AAAAAAAAhxI/6OhG8RihRY4/s200/After_Jispa_Breakfast_View.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XQVZtELVgCQ/Tk5xr6UtzcI/AAAAAAAAhxA/7LdVXavmsMM/s1600/After_Jispa_Breakfast.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XQVZtELVgCQ/Tk5xr6UtzcI/AAAAAAAAhxA/7LdVXavmsMM/s200/After_Jispa_Breakfast.jpeg" /></a><br />
Views from breakfast point after Jispa <small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
On the way we crossed two beautiful lakes - Deepak Taal and Suraj Taal. Crystal clear water with blue and green reflections of the sky looked beautiful. The mountains were amazingly multi-colored and scenic. We also had to cross a powerful stream of water flowing right across the road. This stream was much talked about by people, who had said that it becomes difficult to cross in the afternoon when more of the ice starts melting up the mountains. Luckily for us it was not that bad, and we also saw a bridge being built alongside. Hopefully by next season the bridge will be installed and a major hurdle will be gone.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8_1lqJvzfu0/Tk5zFp07GYI/AAAAAAAAhxY/XsLXxDr0f1E/s1600/Deepak_Taal.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8_1lqJvzfu0/Tk5zFp07GYI/AAAAAAAAhxY/XsLXxDr0f1E/s200/Deepak_Taal.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JBJeoHUDOc0/Tk5zFEx1WtI/AAAAAAAAhxQ/5GtjelgD31Y/s1600/Riding_On_Before_Deepak_Taal.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JBJeoHUDOc0/Tk5zFEx1WtI/AAAAAAAAhxQ/5GtjelgD31Y/s200/Riding_On_Before_Deepak_Taal.jpeg" /></a><br />
Deepak Taal and nearby roads <small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-89pLu8ovkXM/Tk5zuPp6w8I/AAAAAAAAhxo/mUwlHKbWSZc/s1600/ToSarchuRoadBlock.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-89pLu8ovkXM/Tk5zuPp6w8I/AAAAAAAAhxo/mUwlHKbWSZc/s200/ToSarchuRoadBlock.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m_X0gQx6v1s/Tk5zt340opI/AAAAAAAAhxg/KKBQmrVdpw4/s1600/ToSarchuMightyStream.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m_X0gQx6v1s/Tk5zt340opI/AAAAAAAAhxg/KKBQmrVdpw4/s200/ToSarchuMightyStream.jpeg" /></a><br />
Minor road blocks and hurdles <small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
Not many people go beyond Keylong, and roads are mostly empty after that till Leh. There's no habitation also till around 80 km from Leh. Sarchu is just a plain area with no permanent habitation. You can only find tents for hire by the roadside managed by a few enterprising guys. We picked up one such place to stay at Rs.150 per head. They also provide simple food (rice, dal and one vegetable curry) at additional charge. And yes, no telephone or mobile signals till Leh.<br />
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Mountain sickness caught me at this place. It is a strange irritating feeling. On top of it I had a bit of stomach ulcer, probably because of not having enough water during the last leg of the journey. It lasted through the night, and I was ok by the morning. The other option nearby was Pang - further 80km towards Leh. But Pang is supposedly worse than Sarchu for mountain sickness.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eCHu1AlB7ZU/Tk50kkkMERI/AAAAAAAAhx4/Lmz-Buffci8/s1600/SarchuTents.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eCHu1AlB7ZU/Tk50kkkMERI/AAAAAAAAhx4/Lmz-Buffci8/s200/SarchuTents.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mo3FLnMolzw/Tk50kaNQGLI/AAAAAAAAhxw/kfuGCPqh0Ug/s1600/ToSarchuScenic.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mo3FLnMolzw/Tk50kaNQGLI/AAAAAAAAhxw/kfuGCPqh0Ug/s200/ToSarchuScenic.jpeg" /></a><br />
Sarchu tents (left). Scenic mountains around Sarchu (right)<br />
<small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
The bikes received a bit of attention at this place - one of them getting its clutch plates replaced. But overall the bikes were trouble free. The evening at Sarchu was beautiful with the sky turning red with the setting sun. It was interesting to watching the last direct rays of the setting sun slowly edging up the mountain peaks before disappearing leaving everything in a dull shadow. The night was cold and we all slept with our shoes, gloves and jackets on.<br />
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<font size="+1"><b>Sarchu to Leh:</b></font><br />
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The next day was our longest ride from Sarchu to Leh. This leg of the journey was again like the first day. We crossed the Gata Loops - dusty and gravel road with 21 steep loops, two passes - Nakee La and Lachung La, many streams, Moore plains with portions of awesome road and a kilometer or more of of knee deep loose dust. The mountains and skies were stunning, but the road demanded attention. Seeing the occasional speck of a vehicle ahead climbing atop a far away mountain reminds you of the distance and the road ahead. I do not have words enough to explain the emotions.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RUey2OS59XM/Tk55f-G5CrI/AAAAAAAAhyQ/3OKK7uwxFhQ/s1600/ToLeh_Scenic2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RUey2OS59XM/Tk55f-G5CrI/AAAAAAAAhyQ/3OKK7uwxFhQ/s200/ToLeh_Scenic2.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F-ahdVGi9Ms/Tk55fvGTCLI/AAAAAAAAhyI/4elMutvWnxE/s1600/ToLeh_Scenic1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F-ahdVGi9Ms/Tk55fvGTCLI/AAAAAAAAhyI/4elMutvWnxE/s200/ToLeh_Scenic1.jpeg" /></a><br />
The best part of the ride - scenic views. <small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-09qxw6x8ZfA/Tk550dhTg1I/AAAAAAAAhyg/fgSreqNPuFc/s1600/UpshiRoad.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-09qxw6x8ZfA/Tk550dhTg1I/AAAAAAAAhyg/fgSreqNPuFc/s200/UpshiRoad.jpeg" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vg6TvSWywH8/Tk550M76naI/AAAAAAAAhyY/RA0cMjDbH2A/s1600/RidingToUpshi.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vg6TvSWywH8/Tk550M76naI/AAAAAAAAhyY/RA0cMjDbH2A/s200/RidingToUpshi.jpeg" /></a><br />
Riding to Upshi <small>(click pictures to enlarge)</small></div><br />
We had food at Upshi, around 200km from Sarchu and 80km from Leh. Upshi had a good number of dhabas serving Tibetan, Chinese and Indian cuisine - simple but tasty. After reaching Leh, searching for a guest house took us some time. The hotels near the main market are very expensive. We found a decent clean and simple place at Fort Road. Little inside and away from the hustle bustle of the market, but at walkable distance from it in case we needed something. <br />
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With the back breaking but enjoyable ride over, all of us were left with a mixed bag of feelings - sad that the best part of the trip is probably over, but at the same time eager to see what lies in the days ahead.<br />
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I must mention another point here now. I had been eying the Royal Enfield Bullet for some time, but owning one is a painful process here; involving quite some money (~ Rs 1 lakh) and patience (wait period ~ 1 year). Though what really inspired me to take this trip is the promised concoction of adventure, travel and nature, experiencing the Enfield Bullet was constantly there in the back of my mind. It was supposed to be a sort of 'test drive' of the Bullet before I decide to book one for myself. And if you ask me if I was impressed, my answer will be a mighty YES. :)<br />
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More on Leh and our return back from Leh, along with useful links and information related to our trip in the next post...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uMvF_DM3Jrk/Tk0xxdERLfI/AAAAAAAAhuo/rzz2-yj6LVU/s1600/UsBikers.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="214" width="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uMvF_DM3Jrk/Tk0xxdERLfI/AAAAAAAAhuo/rzz2-yj6LVU/s320/UsBikers.JPG" /></a><br />
Some of us on our bikes.</div><br />
Next Post: <a href="http://elusive42.windforwings.com/2011/08/leh-ladakh-beautiful-high-altitude.html">Leh, Ladakh : Beautiful High Altitude Desert</a><br />
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Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com19Leh, Jammu & Kashmir, India34.178028 77.5814609999999934.131209999999996 77.532966499999986 34.224846 77.6299555tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-71767096573984030002011-05-29T08:38:00.007+05:302011-05-29T08:38:00.883+05:30Horsley Hills - Perfect Place For Doing NothingHorsley Hills, the name itself sounds energetic. I somehow always visualized horse stables and sometimes race tracks when I heard the name. I had read about it being referred to as a small hill in Andhra Pradesh - Karnataka border, good to be visited in the summers. The article about <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsley_Hills" target="_blank">Horsley Hills on Wikipedia</a> gave some more information about the place.<br />
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The decision to go was abrupt. We finalized in the afternoon, called up the Governor's Bungalow to book rooms, packed up stuff in the evening and left Bangalore by 7PM. Just 170 kms from Bangalore, we had estimated around 4hrs of drive time. <br />
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<b>Telephone Numbers:</b><br />
Governor's bungalow: +91-8571-279323/24<br />
Or at Bangalore via AP Tourism: +91-80-41136373<br />
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<b>Approach Route:</b><br />
Bangalore -> Hosakote -> Kolar -> Rayalapadu -> Madanapale -> go towards Anantpur, turn left after a short distance to Horsley Hills.<br />
Driving time at night - 5hrs (including break for dinner)<br />
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Road conditions:<br />
- Good highway till Kolar<br />
- Get into the city at Kolar, narrow roads with traffic till you cross the city<br />
- From Kolar good roads till Rayalapadu<br />
- From around Rayalapadu small potholed road till Horsley Hills<br />
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We had dinner at a place between Hosakote and Kolar. Eating places could also be seen till Kolar, and some at Rayalapadu. But none beyond that... if they were there, they were all closed for the night.<br />
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The thing I like about driving in the night is empty roads. And the cool breeze. That's about the only two things probably... Everything else becomes difficult; like avoiding stray dogs, finding tea/coffee, and reading road signs. The turn towards Horsely Hills on Madanapale - Anantpur road is easy to miss in the night. There is a big arch way at the entrance, but it is sort of hidden by adjacent trees and not lighted at all. We missed the turn and went further for about 10kms till we started suspecting it. Luckily we found some villagers still chatting by the roadside and turned back after taking directions from them. The climb up to the hills is a very gentle one. We chanced upon a rabbit on our drive up that scurried away under the glare of our headlights.<br />
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<b>Impressions:</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CDdiLu7FDyY/TdlYSQnmpDI/AAAAAAAAgrg/5-cyZ8wCRRY/s1600/HorselyHillsCottage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:right; float:right; margin-left:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CDdiLu7FDyY/TdlYSQnmpDI/AAAAAAAAgrg/5-cyZ8wCRRY/s200/HorselyHillsCottage.jpg" /></a></div>As we drove in through the gates of the Governor's Bungalow complex, I looked at the watch and it was 12:30 in the night. The staff at the reception had slept off, but woke up as soon as they heard us coming. They courteously checked us in and showed us till our room. <br />
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The complex has some cottages and rows of bungalows. The bungalows were mostly two floors high and each floor having around 6-8 large sized rooms. The rooms were spacious and airy and bathrooms huge. The construction is old and has been renovated recently. So don't expect any swanky fittings, but the place is clean. <br />
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<small>(The picture to the right is of a cottage at the same complex. These were not the bungalows where we stayed. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the bungalows.)</small><br />
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The best part of the room we stayed in was its huge balcony. It was an awesome place to sit and watch the stars. Being high up and with its open surroundings, it was really windy out there. In the silence of the night all we could hear was the wind. The winds are probably a regular feature of the place, because all the bungalows were named after different forms of wind.<br />
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<p align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tanmaykm/5595501622/" title="Playing with Fire"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5106/5595501622_9485a4bf42_m.jpg" width="160" height="240" alt="Playing with Fire"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tanmaykm/5595500830/" title="Ready to face the world"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097/5595500830_9bba2b7a43_m.jpg" width="192" height="240" alt="Ready to face the world"></a><br />
</p><br />
Next morning we got up early to watch the sun rise. After roaming around the hill in circles to find a good spot, we finally walked up a small hill near a temple (just adjacent to the Governor's Bungalow complex). There was a small pond at the base and a few houses where the staff of the bungalows and their families stay. The hills were barricaded with barbed wire, but a kind lady standing at the veranda of one of the houses there pointed us towards a break in the wire through which we could cross over to the other side. This place was not crowded at all, in fact, we were the only ones there. The sun rise from there was beautiful. We sat there for long and experimented with our cameras.<br />
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We would probably have stayed there the whole day, but pangs of hunger drove us back to the bungalow. It was easy to find the canteen - the place with most crowd and noise. The breakfast was ample with decent variety of south indian items.<br />
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<p align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tanmaykm/5595504500/" title="Beginnings of the bright future"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5171/5595504500_df633470a7_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="Beginnings of the bright future"></a><br />
</p><br />
Horsley hills has a bit for everything for everybody - comfortable stay, good food, natural beauty, a temple, a small zoo, a swimming pool, and a bit of adventure sports including a bit of zorbing, rappelling and short treks. Not everything was open that day and the place was under heavy renovation. Later during the day we discovered another place with magnificent view of the valley where we spent a couple of hours relaxing.<br />
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We started back late evening, and picked up some pottery on our way back. This area is also known for its pottery and terracotta work. We took a slightly different route on our way back, avoiding Kolar. Roads on this route were better.<br />
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Return Route:<br />
Horsley Hills -> Madanapale -> Rayalapadu -> Chintamani -> Hoskote -> Bangalore.<br />
Driving time - 4hrs<br />
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Horsley hills is one of the perfect places for a laid back weekend - perfect for doing just nothing. Not my regular kind of place, but I sure enjoyed it for the short while I was there.Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-35718916782900133792011-05-01T17:53:00.001+05:302011-05-01T18:03:00.770+05:30A Trip Down Memory Lane - Chitradurga Fort(Part of a series of posts starting with <a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">"A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>)<br />
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<b>Approach and Stay:</b><br />
Chitradurga is around 130kms from Bellary and 200kms from Bangalore. Roads are great and driving time from Bellary was around 2.5 hours. We spotted a nice big hotel right next to the highway and checked in to it. I don't remember the name of the hotel, but I guess it was Hotel Green Park or something. The hotel had a nice restaurant where we had dinner.<br />
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The fort is around 20kms from where the hotel is, the road passing through the city. It is a well known tourist place and popular among local crowd and all kinds of tourists. It can get really crowded at the fort and parking space in front of the fort is scarce. In spite of reaching the gates quite early (around 10 AM) the parking spaces were almost full and we were lucky to find a usable space we could squeeze our car into.<br />
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<b>The Fort:</b><br />
One has to purchase tickets to enter into the fort and there are plenty of guides available whom one can hire to show you around. The fort is pretty vast and has many small monuments that have interesting stories. They are useful if you don't know the place and care about the anecdotes. We hired one. There's a nice map at the entrance which one can refer to get a general idea of what is where inside the fort. Below is a picture of the map. Click on it to enlarge and print it as a reference if you are visiting.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gkSaVn3_Nrk/Tb1IKoOyA0I/AAAAAAAAgpQ/TsZc8daBBxc/s1600/Chitradurga_Map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="267" width="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gkSaVn3_Nrk/Tb1IKoOyA0I/AAAAAAAAgpQ/TsZc8daBBxc/s400/Chitradurga_Map.jpg" /></a><br />
Map of Chitradurga Fort. <small>(Click on picture for a larger view.)</small><br />
</div><br />
Chitradurga is really vast and true to its name, picturesque. Its history dates back to the Chalukya era (6th century AD), but it achieved most of its prominence in the era of the Vijayanagara empire (1500 - 1800 AD). The Nayakas, feudal lords of Chitradurga, were associated with the Vijayanagara empire till it crumbled around 1565 AD. After that this area was ruled independently by the Nayakas till 1780 when Hyder Ali seized control from the Nayakas. Hyder Ali and subsequently Tipu Sultan strengthened the fort considerably. After Tipu Sultan's death in 1799, the British rulers used the fort till they left. <br />
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Below is a series of pictures of Chitradurga. Most of the structures standing today are temples and a few important constructions that were built with stone. There were many structures built with mud which have been destroyed completely. Few mud structures standing till now are parts of the palace and official structures (e.g. mint, treasury). What is striking is the greenery inside the fort - unlike all other places that we have seen so far. This place must be really fertile!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><small>(Click on the pictures for a larger view)</small><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U8z05qVY0c8/Tb1JNp70MeI/AAAAAAAAgpg/X_4xz43Hsd4/s1600/Chitradurga_Beauty2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U8z05qVY0c8/Tb1JNp70MeI/AAAAAAAAgpg/X_4xz43Hsd4/s200/Chitradurga_Beauty2.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wG_yAZlFTu0/Tb1JNTBafOI/AAAAAAAAgpY/au_Aby2NQNU/s1600/Chitradurga_Beauty1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wG_yAZlFTu0/Tb1JNTBafOI/AAAAAAAAgpY/au_Aby2NQNU/s200/Chitradurga_Beauty1.jpg" /></a><br />
Beauty and greenery of Chitradurga Fort.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_9F3zG5q478/Tb1LLfVhGgI/AAAAAAAAgpw/l6Rv-IAe-zQ/s1600/Chitradurga_Mint_Kacheri1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_9F3zG5q478/Tb1LLfVhGgI/AAAAAAAAgpw/l6Rv-IAe-zQ/s200/Chitradurga_Mint_Kacheri1.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HL2EyEjpc_I/Tb1LMKfhVeI/AAAAAAAAgpo/cOB2XeuEY64/s1600/Chitradurga_Underground_Treasury.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HL2EyEjpc_I/Tb1LMKfhVeI/AAAAAAAAgpo/cOB2XeuEY64/s200/Chitradurga_Underground_Treasury.jpg" /></a><br />
Mint and Treasury complex (left).<br />
Underground secret storage chamber of the mint (right)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jgWXjzFDgEQ/Tb1MFXuZpSI/AAAAAAAAgqA/uE0ALVA12Hc/s1600/Chitradurga_Temple_And_Palace_Complex.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jgWXjzFDgEQ/Tb1MFXuZpSI/AAAAAAAAgqA/uE0ALVA12Hc/s200/Chitradurga_Temple_And_Palace_Complex.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0eD8K1Wg26U/Tb1MFVipN0I/AAAAAAAAgp4/4rXM4O7UXc0/s1600/Chitradurga_Hidimbeshwara_Temple.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0eD8K1Wg26U/Tb1MFVipN0I/AAAAAAAAgp4/4rXM4O7UXc0/s200/Chitradurga_Hidimbeshwara_Temple.jpg" /></a><br />
Palace and Temple complex (left)<br />
Hidimbeshwara Temple (right)</div><br />
Another event not to miss while at Chitradurga fort is the show by the local "Spiderman"! His real name is Jyothi Raju and he is amazing with his climbing skills. He put up a nice show while we were there. His well rehearsed climbs, jumps and even slips are amazing to watch. The internet is full of videos of him.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3kDPbM8d0NQ/Tb1NzluXEHI/AAAAAAAAgqQ/rQjVhCSMJfM/s1600/Chitradurga_Spiderman2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3kDPbM8d0NQ/Tb1NzluXEHI/AAAAAAAAgqQ/rQjVhCSMJfM/s200/Chitradurga_Spiderman2.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pDDEmn0V0hI/Tb1Nzf3ly-I/AAAAAAAAgqI/OEXOXkcINfM/s1600/Chitradurga_Spiderman1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pDDEmn0V0hI/Tb1Nzf3ly-I/AAAAAAAAgqI/OEXOXkcINfM/s200/Chitradurga_Spiderman1.jpg" /></a><br />
Chitradurga Spiderman - Mr. Jyothu Raju.<br />
<small>(Click of the pictures for a larger view)</small></div><br />
<b>Advice:</b><br />
The guides usually rush you through the prominent places in a couple of hours. But one can spend the whole day inside the fort. The guides charge around 300-400 rupees, but it probably also depends on your bargaining skills. After letting the guide do his job, just walk around slowly revisiting the places you saw or sit quietly under the shade of a tree or a temple courtyard. Carry enough food inside, there are no shops inside and hawkers are not allowed inside.<br />
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Thus ended our day at Chitradurga and this whole North Karnataka road trip. It was a long trip full of awe inspiring stories, monuments and sights. It was simultaneously enjoyable, relaxing and educative. Do comment and let me know how you found this series of posts titled "A Trip Down Memory Lane" covering a historical circuit around North Karnataka.<br />
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<a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">Back to "A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-54848519304039310052011-04-26T12:02:00.000+05:302011-04-26T12:02:42.913+05:30A Trip Down Memory Lane - Bellary Fort(Part of a series of posts starting with <a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">"A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GrzKI6KLpuc/TbZh1xDHJYI/AAAAAAAAgSU/JTCIOO5a4YQ/s1600/Bellary_Fort_View_From_Highway.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GrzKI6KLpuc/TbZh1xDHJYI/AAAAAAAAgSU/JTCIOO5a4YQ/s200/Bellary_Fort_View_From_Highway.JPG" /></a></div><b>Approach:</b><br/>Bellary is pretty near to Hospet - around 80 kms. It took us around 2-3 hours to drive till here from Hospet. Bellary is known for the Bellary fort. Today, Bellary is known for its granite mines (there are stones all around!) and iron and steel plants (owing to nearby mines). The drive was good. The fort is on a hill and is visible right from the highway. We however still needed to ask people to find our way inside the town and towards the base of the hill from where we could go up to the fort.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7KR1ymLQaWo/TbZivEEHJxI/AAAAAAAAgSc/-IzTGSyn6XY/s1600/Bellary_Fort_Stairs.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:right; float:right; margin-left:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7KR1ymLQaWo/TbZivEEHJxI/AAAAAAAAgSc/-IzTGSyn6XY/s200/Bellary_Fort_Stairs.JPG" /></a></div>The place is far from secluded and people stay right till the base of the hill that has the fort. At the base of the hill there is a small clearing to park vehicles and a guard room cum ticket office for the fort. There are around 400 steps that take you inside the fort and till the top of the hill.<br />
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<b>Impression:</b><br/>The fort is in two levels - the inner top level was constructed during the Vijayanagara empire, where as the outer bottom level was constructed during the reign of Haider Ali (around 1800 AD). The lower fort was built by a French engineer. It is believed that Haider Ali later found out that the fort is not really the highest point in the neighborhood. The highest point was another nearby hill which put the fort at a great disadvantage militarily. Haider Ali was so upset that he ordered execution of the French engineer.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H7fLndwVAWc/TbZjAWVgyZI/AAAAAAAAgSk/9qwQbACE9SE/s1600/Bellary_Fort_Rock_Covered_Entrance.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H7fLndwVAWc/TbZjAWVgyZI/AAAAAAAAgSk/9qwQbACE9SE/s200/Bellary_Fort_Rock_Covered_Entrance.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TBOeSH7CrIM/TbZjZ2gVpzI/AAAAAAAAgS0/CbVZDFG75Ek/s1600/Bellary_Fort_Inside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TBOeSH7CrIM/TbZjZ2gVpzI/AAAAAAAAgS0/CbVZDFG75Ek/s200/Bellary_Fort_Inside.JPG" /></a></div><br />
The entrance to the inner fort passes through an impressive huge rock facade. The ancient stone living quarters are today dirty and smelly from bat dung. Large halls had ventilators on the roof that provided light and air. It is also sad to see people dirtying the place by leaving behind beer bottles and stale food. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xhJzPDE33mo/TbZjaNDtgAI/AAAAAAAAgS8/g6ZQzJekke4/s1600/Bellary_Fort_View_From_Top.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xhJzPDE33mo/TbZjaNDtgAI/AAAAAAAAgS8/g6ZQzJekke4/s200/Bellary_Fort_View_From_Top.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ySTFTZzOSF0/TbZjAq9U-PI/AAAAAAAAgSs/9Bn8em7gxeg/s1600/Bellary_Fort_Water_Reservoirs.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ySTFTZzOSF0/TbZjAq9U-PI/AAAAAAAAgSs/9Bn8em7gxeg/s200/Bellary_Fort_Water_Reservoirs.JPG" /></a></div><br />
Notable among other things are huge reservoirs of water build at many places in the fort. These reservoirs collect and store rain water for sustenance of people residing inside the fort. There are many of them and they are connected by subtle channels. Even during times of invasion, these pools are said to be able to support around 1000 people inside the fort for months. Standing at the top, one gets a birds eye view of the city below. Standing near one of the gun turrets, it is easy to see why this was a great vantage place to fight from. <br />
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<b>Advice:</b><br/>It would be nice to be there early in the morning or late in the evening and watch the magnificent fort under the golden glow of the Sun. There are not many good places for food and stay nearby, and it could get very hot in the afternoon with all the bare rocks around. It is advisable to wear a cap and carry enough water and some snacks while exploring the fort. <br />
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We spent around three hours there, had some biscuits for lunch and started off towards Chitradurga, hoping to find a good place to stay. More about Chitradurga in the next post.<br />
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<a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">Back to "A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-96565842629016352011-04-10T10:48:00.001+05:302011-04-10T10:49:36.862+05:30A Trip Down Memory Lane - Hampi (Hospet)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">(Part of a series of posts starting with <a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">"A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tW1qVD-sPXI/TaE8_DK-s5I/AAAAAAAAgRE/SMrpNAgUYDA/s1600/Hospet_Tungabhadra_Dam_Sunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tW1qVD-sPXI/TaE8_DK-s5I/AAAAAAAAgRE/SMrpNAgUYDA/s200/Hospet_Tungabhadra_Dam_Sunset.jpg" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5FJJGz5JAcU/TaE8_L6TFVI/AAAAAAAAgQ8/vFkNh1P8KYM/s1600/Hospet_Tungabhadra_Dam_Fountains.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5FJJGz5JAcU/TaE8_L6TFVI/AAAAAAAAgQ8/vFkNh1P8KYM/s200/Hospet_Tungabhadra_Dam_Fountains.jpg" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dVHPt80hiuw/TaE8_YF7XHI/AAAAAAAAgRM/Ur7ohN4SERg/s1600/Hospet_Tungabhadra_Dam_Lighthouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dVHPt80hiuw/TaE8_YF7XHI/AAAAAAAAgRM/Ur7ohN4SERg/s200/Hospet_Tungabhadra_Dam_Lighthouse.jpg" /></a></div><br />
After the grueling drive of almost 6 hours (you can have a feel of it from my previous post) we reached Hospet. Hospet has many good places to stay. We picked up one that had a good parking place. Hospet is known primarily for the Hampi ruins. But it also is home to a dam over the Tungabhadra river that passes near it. Since they have perennial source of water, dams are ideal places for gardens. And the Tungabhadra river dam was no exception. We spent the evening at the dam lazing around in the garden. Later in the evening they had a nice show of musical dancing fountains - where they synchronize the water of fountains to music and colorful lights. <br />
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Hampi was the capital of the mighty Vijayanagara empire for around 200 years (1336-1565 AD). Apart from being the seat of political and military power, it was also a major trading center and the culturally happening place of the empire. Hampi saw its peak during the reign of King Krishnadeva Raya (1509-1529 AD). After Vijayanagara's defeat in the hands of the Deccan sultanates, Hampi was looted and suffered major destruction. It was abandoned and the area remained forested and unexplored till it was uncovered again by the curious colonial explorers and historians during the 1800s and 1900s.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BHjfkMmVSd8/TaBFD6WLWCI/AAAAAAAAgOg/gAxMfm8-4vM/s1600/IMG_8334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BHjfkMmVSd8/TaBFD6WLWCI/AAAAAAAAgOg/gAxMfm8-4vM/s200/IMG_8334.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>The Hampi ruins are about 15 kms and 30 minutes drive time from Hospet. The ruins are roughly separated into multiple zones that are identifiable based on the distance between them and the cluster and type of architectural ruins. The two prominent zones are:<br />
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(observe the map alongside to visualize)<br />
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<ul><li><b>The Sacred Center:</b> mostly had the temples and religious sites</li>
<li><b>The Royal Center:</b> royal living quarters</li>
</ul><br />
There is a part of the ruins on the other side of the Tungabhadra river (coracles and boats available for crossing). As you must have guessed, a quick tour of Hampi would comprise of a day of concentrated visit to each zone. I'll mention few of the prominent/interesting places here, but my writing will in no way be complete. Some of the description text below are taken from the ASI boards outside the respective structures.<br />
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<b>Krishna Temple</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-85wLc0qqaNI/TaE3StqbNUI/AAAAAAAAgO4/ag4BR1c57Vo/s1600/Hampi_Krishna_Temple2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-85wLc0qqaNI/TaE3StqbNUI/AAAAAAAAgO4/ag4BR1c57Vo/s200/Hampi_Krishna_Temple2.jpg" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W3pfy1wiAzQ/TaE3SeXTZQI/AAAAAAAAgOo/HlTiF_IKwf4/s1600/Hampi_Krishna_Temple0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W3pfy1wiAzQ/TaE3SeXTZQI/AAAAAAAAgOo/HlTiF_IKwf4/s200/Hampi_Krishna_Temple0.jpg" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8KvNN_-nj2g/TaE3SXeXGZI/AAAAAAAAgOw/Ja2oLiKFou4/s1600/Hampi_Krishna_Temple1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8KvNN_-nj2g/TaE3SXeXGZI/AAAAAAAAgOw/Ja2oLiKFou4/s200/Hampi_Krishna_Temple1.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The Krishna temple is large, ornate and east facing. It was consecrated with an icon of Balakrishna (the child Krishna) in 1513 AD which was brought from Udayagiri of Kalinga (present day Orissa) after Krishnadeva Raya's war against Kalinga. The temple compound has many small shrines apart from the main shrine. The grand standing eastern gate is an outstanding example of Vijayanagara architecture. The temple walls have carved depictions of the Bhagabata. The pillars of the mahamandap have depictions of the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu. Just in front of the eastern gate of the Krishna temple there are rows of narrow shelters typical of a marketplace. A little further down is a big water resorvoir with shelters built around it.<br />
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<b>Virupaksha Temple</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D3vEYjMp5js/TaE4C8Hrm9I/AAAAAAAAgPI/tPTqlHWT_Ik/s1600/Hampi_Virupaksha_Temple1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D3vEYjMp5js/TaE4C8Hrm9I/AAAAAAAAgPI/tPTqlHWT_Ik/s200/Hampi_Virupaksha_Temple1.jpg" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-PjaLC_z54/TaE4CjBfJZI/AAAAAAAAgPA/8SXc237a6Lo/s1600/Hampi_Virupaksha_Temple0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-PjaLC_z54/TaE4CjBfJZI/AAAAAAAAgPA/8SXc237a6Lo/s200/Hampi_Virupaksha_Temple0.jpg" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cua6UXhMbxM/TaE4CxR0ARI/AAAAAAAAgPQ/amJi3IqIqvc/s1600/Hampi_Virupaksha_Temple2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cua6UXhMbxM/TaE4CxR0ARI/AAAAAAAAgPQ/amJi3IqIqvc/s200/Hampi_Virupaksha_Temple2.jpg" /></a></div><br />
This is the temple of Virupaksha or Pampapati - the guardian deity of the Vijayanagara kingdom. The temple was built initially as a modest structure, but grew to its present (huge) proportions under the patronage of various kings. It has some wonderful ceiling paintings. It is interesting that a narrow channel of the Tungabhadra river flows through the temple terrace and passes through the temple kitchen before flowing out. The temple overlooks the Hampi bazaar. This was the most prominent and important thoroughfare during earlier times. Today the Hampi bazaar is lined with shops selling trinkets and food. Many shops have some very interesting names - like the one we saw that was named 'Excuse Me'.<br />
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<b>Vitthala Temple</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QalYk4UOjLc/TaE5NzsCRUI/AAAAAAAAgPY/XX1uK5TLcdw/s1600/Hampi_Vitthala_Stone_Chariot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QalYk4UOjLc/TaE5NzsCRUI/AAAAAAAAgPY/XX1uK5TLcdw/s200/Hampi_Vitthala_Stone_Chariot.jpg" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-naYfpur97WU/TaE5OKuvN1I/AAAAAAAAgPg/6VuM708WRQg/s1600/Hampi_Vitthala_Temple1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-naYfpur97WU/TaE5OKuvN1I/AAAAAAAAgPg/6VuM708WRQg/s200/Hampi_Vitthala_Temple1.jpg" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-naeNki4xZvQ/TaE5ODh49CI/AAAAAAAAgPo/91DMzA3uaMY/s1600/Hampi_Vitthala_Temple2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="102" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-naeNki4xZvQ/TaE5ODh49CI/AAAAAAAAgPo/91DMzA3uaMY/s200/Hampi_Vitthala_Temple2.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Vitthala is another name for Lord Krishna. The Vitthala temple represents the highest level of Vijayanagara empire's art and architecture. It is one of the largest temples build around that period - 1422-1529 AD. And it has one of the most beautiful creations of that period - the stone chariot, which has become the icon of today's Karnataka. The temple itself is built on an ornate plinth with slender stone pillars. The stone pillars produce pleasing sounds when tapped gently. Outside the Vitthala temple is... guess what... yes! another huge bazaar. It was typical of those periods to have the market place close to temples since the temples were probably the center of all social activities.<br />
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<b>Hazararama Temple</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_IeHfYNWkPI/TaE5sov7tcI/AAAAAAAAgPw/vX8ABtUksLw/s1600/Hampi_Hazararama_Temple.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_IeHfYNWkPI/TaE5sov7tcI/AAAAAAAAgPw/vX8ABtUksLw/s200/Hampi_Hazararama_Temple.jpg" /></a></div>This temple lies within the royal enclosure and served as the private temple of the royal family. It has beautiful carved strips of figures depicting scenes from the epic Ramayana. Hence the name Hazararama (a thousand Ramas). <br />
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<b>The Queen's Bath</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sLTqgUckWRo/TaE6S0_lztI/AAAAAAAAgQA/sgwfIL9ITl4/s1600/Hampi_Queens_Bath1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="200" width="134" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sLTqgUckWRo/TaE6S0_lztI/AAAAAAAAgQA/sgwfIL9ITl4/s200/Hampi_Queens_Bath1.jpg" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uIaKuPxIJgY/TaE6SjvG6QI/AAAAAAAAgP4/_g8c9Vm4eEs/s1600/Hampi_Queens_Bath0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uIaKuPxIJgY/TaE6SjvG6QI/AAAAAAAAgP4/_g8c9Vm4eEs/s200/Hampi_Queens_Bath0.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Though this is called the queen’s bath, but in all probability this was a royal pleasure complex for the king and his wives. The whole building has a veranda around the inside edges facing a big open pond at the middle. Projecting into the pond are many ornate balconies with tiny windows and supported by lotus bud tipped brackets below them. An aqueduct that probably carried water into the pond terminates at one of the edges. The whole pool is open to the sky, but there was probably a canopy fixed on top in those times. At one end of the veranda you can see a flight of steps giving access to the pool. Imagine the place with fragrant flowers and perfumed water and you can realize the luxury that the kings of yore had. <br />
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<b>Octagonal Bath</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CsOF4Cp3-_Q/TaE6dSP_stI/AAAAAAAAgQI/7ySWEjkGrkY/s1600/Hampi_Octagonal_Bath0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CsOF4Cp3-_Q/TaE6dSP_stI/AAAAAAAAgQI/7ySWEjkGrkY/s200/Hampi_Octagonal_Bath0.jpg" /></a></div>Talking of baths, there is also an octagonal bath located nearby. Though similar in size to the queens bath, it is not as ornate. At the center of the bath is an octagonal platform which probably was used as a sitting place. These guys really knew how to make grand swimming pools. With water from the Tungabhadra available in plenty, they must be having a ball of time round the year.<br />
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<b>The King's Balance</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IHYi9kGOhuc/TaE6sYAIOHI/AAAAAAAAgQQ/VwxSF34VGPk/s1600/Hampi_Kings_balance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IHYi9kGOhuc/TaE6sYAIOHI/AAAAAAAAgQQ/VwxSF34VGPk/s200/Hampi_Kings_balance.jpg" /></a></div>What can be seen is the frame of the balance that was used to weigh the king against precious items like gold and jewels. This was typically done during festivals and special occasions and the gold and jewels thus weighed were distributed among the poor or religious people.<br />
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<b>Royal Enclosure</b><br />
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This was a fortified area that housed the royal family and the people who served them directly. Nearby were important official buildings like the mint, the Zanana enclosure and the Hazararama temple which was the royal family's private temple. Most of the royal enclosure has been completely ruined. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OABMTkakY4Q/TaE64ULn8MI/AAAAAAAAgQc/a6uX3VJ-Abo/s1600/Hampi_Royal_Elclosure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OABMTkakY4Q/TaE64ULn8MI/AAAAAAAAgQc/a6uX3VJ-Abo/s200/Hampi_Royal_Elclosure.jpg" /></a></div>Among the few that are still standing, the Mahanavami Dibba is the most majestic. It is a huge decorated platform with carvings along the wall. This was used as a platform to watch celebrations and performances. The view from the top gives a birds eye perspective of the layout of the enclosure.<br />
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There are also quite a few water bodies in the enclosure, including a beautiful stepped tank. A network of aqueducts, the remnants of which can still be seen, were used to channel water into them.<br />
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<b>Zenana Enclosure</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aMhjg4U2FFc/TaE7MH6OZYI/AAAAAAAAgQk/yjJkLPgvML0/s1600/Hampi_Zenana_Enclosure_Watchtower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aMhjg4U2FFc/TaE7MH6OZYI/AAAAAAAAgQk/yjJkLPgvML0/s200/Hampi_Zenana_Enclosure_Watchtower.jpg" /></a></div>Near to the royal enclosure, this was another secluded enclosure for the royal women. It had high boundary walls and was guarded by guards on watch towers at every corner of the enclosure. Nothing much remains of the queen's palace and other structures inside the enclosure. They were probably more intricately decorated and hence made of softer materials like wood which disintegrated easily.<br />
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<b>Lotus Mahal</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gGhOIgtki5I/TaE7SydsyCI/AAAAAAAAgQs/bmKMcvs6yJc/s1600/Hampi_Lotus_Mahal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gGhOIgtki5I/TaE7SydsyCI/AAAAAAAAgQs/bmKMcvs6yJc/s200/Hampi_Lotus_Mahal.jpg" /></a></div>Located inside the Zenana enclosure at Hampi, this is a fine example of indo-islamic architecture. It was probably a place of socializing used by the royal ladies. Unlike most other structures of Hampi, this was made out of bricks and lime plaster that gave its walls a smooth texture. And it was surprisingly not damaged during the seize of Hampi.<br />
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<b>Elephant Stable</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wxiaDpz2L3M/TaE7bydZKxI/AAAAAAAAgQ0/NcvtljEjy7w/s1600/Hampi_Elephant_Stable.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="134" width="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wxiaDpz2L3M/TaE7bydZKxI/AAAAAAAAgQ0/NcvtljEjy7w/s200/Hampi_Elephant_Stable.jpg" /></a></div>This structure, near the Zanana enclosure was used to house the royal elephants. It has a row of domed enclosures. Some of them are interconnected and some have a small hole at the back for people to enter. This is one of the least damaged structures of Hampi. There is an expansive lawn in front of the stables, which was probably used as a ground for training elephants or elephant processions.<br />
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Our Hampi trip was pretty intense. Hampi has been a much promoted tourist place and has been extensively researched and written about in recent times. It is still being excavated in some places. This was my second visit to the place in a span of around 8 years. Today's Hampi is much more tourist friendly than it was 8 years back. Places and roads are well marked. Restoration work can be seen being done actively. Our two days of stay was more for relaxation. If interested, one can easily spend a week at Hampi, and soak oneself in the past. The best time to visit is during the winter months when it will be easier to walk around.<br />
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Our next stop was Bellary to visit the Bellary fort. We start off for Bellary next day after breakfast. More on that in the next post.<br />
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<a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">Back to "A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a></div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-7715247564064081212011-03-24T02:11:00.001+05:302011-05-01T17:56:36.667+05:30A Trip Down Memory Lane - Trucks of India(Part of a series of posts starting with <a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">"A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>)<br />
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Hospet is 230 kilometers from Bijapur. The road from Bijapur to Hospet is NH 218 till Bagalkot and then NH 13 till Hospet. The roads were single lane and there was terrible truck traffic on this stretch of the road. Driving was slow and it was irritating to be forced to tail a slow truck. To entertain ourselves we started taking pictures of the behinds of the trucks. After some time it really became amusing to watch the different kinds of messages and pictures painted on them. The styles varied depending on which part of India the trucks came from.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XP9CNyN_nLs/TYpZtTisOZI/AAAAAAAAfwI/-h5jzSii_4E/s1600/IndianTrucks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="250" width="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XP9CNyN_nLs/TYpZtTisOZI/AAAAAAAAfwI/-h5jzSii_4E/s400/IndianTrucks.jpg" /></a></div><br />
I remember having asked someone why are trucks in India always decorated so much, while busses are not. And the reply was that trucks carry goods and run on dusty roads that makes them dirty faster than busses. They are painted with pretty colors to compensate and make them look attractive in spite of the dirt on them. :)<br />
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<a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">Back to "A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-70515844155657662942011-03-20T21:42:00.000+05:302011-03-20T21:42:44.264+05:30A Trip Down Memory Lane - Bijapur<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">(Part of a series of posts starting with <a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">"A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qkdknmb4kDc/TYXq58LUSDI/AAAAAAAAfuw/zqmKlrcH1s8/s1600/BijapurMap.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qkdknmb4kDc/TYXq58LUSDI/AAAAAAAAfuw/zqmKlrcH1s8/s200/BijapurMap.jpeg" width="134" /></a></div>We reached Bijapur after driving for around two and half hours. It was already dark, but we found a few decent hotels to stay and quickly checked into one of them. The hotels were on the same street as the market, so parking spaces were in premium and noise was abundant. Realization about the noise came only after a few hours, and luckily the kind hotel manager agreed to shift us to another room farther from the road. Our experiences at Gulbarga had left us wiser and we stuck to as traditional an attire as we could so as to mingle as much as possible here. Remaining evening was spent shopping some fruits in the local market and dinner at a nearby restaurant. We found a nicely made rough scale local map at one of the shops that combined local service providers and prominent landmarks - sort of a birds eye view of the place.<br />
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Gulbarga to Bijapur distance: 140 km.<br />
Driving time: 3 hours.<br />
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Bijapur was a province of the Bahamani Kingdom till its decline. The Adil Shahi dynasty ruled on Bijapur before it was ultimately assimilated into the Mughal empire by Aurangzeb. During its heyday Bijapur was a culturally rich and diverse city. The Adil Shahi dynasty contributed many grand monuments to Bijapur that are still standing till date.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UoNXjHQUxgU/TYXrOjaTOzI/AAAAAAAAfu4/jfPcIG-A_hk/s1600/GolGumbaz.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UoNXjHQUxgU/TYXrOjaTOzI/AAAAAAAAfu4/jfPcIG-A_hk/s200/GolGumbaz.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div>We started our day with the <b>Gol Gumbaz</b>. It is the huge tomb of Mohammad Adil Shah. In fact it is the worlds third largest dome (of historical significance) after Hagia Sophia in Turkey and the St. Peters Basilica in Rome. The inside of the dome has amazing acoustics. Loud noises produce beautiful echoes sustaining for as long as 10 times - expected of such structures. But what was surprising is that soft whispers are amplified and audible from all places around the dome. You would scratch your head wondering how you can hear someone at the opposite side of the dome scratching their head. It is said that the dome was used for music and dance performances for its acoustic properties. I can understand this from the amplification abilities of the dome, but I wonder how they would have managed with the echoes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--g1cUnwQnik/TYXrX55ScEI/AAAAAAAAfvA/ibYvw-hM-Ss/s1600/GolGumbazView.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--g1cUnwQnik/TYXrX55ScEI/AAAAAAAAfvA/ibYvw-hM-Ss/s200/GolGumbazView.jpeg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cVKCgW7vMn8/TYXrYKNW1fI/AAAAAAAAfvI/pTvJrltt3OE/s1600/BijapurFortBastion.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cVKCgW7vMn8/TYXrYKNW1fI/AAAAAAAAfvI/pTvJrltt3OE/s200/BijapurFortBastion.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
It is possible to climb to the top of the Gumbaz from where one can see the Bijapur city. Also clearly visible are portions of the walls of the fort of Bijapur and its bastions with canons. The surrounding of the Gol Gumbaz is a well maintained garden with a museum maintained by the Architectural Society of India (ASI). The museum was closed that day, but the garden was a relaxing place to laze around.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jmkoEYFNM5Y/TYX1SyGe32I/AAAAAAAAfvQ/OoU27e5_gII/s1600/JamiaMasjid.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jmkoEYFNM5Y/TYX1SyGe32I/AAAAAAAAfvQ/OoU27e5_gII/s200/JamiaMasjid.jpeg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E2POSMXMRU8/TYX1S09tEbI/AAAAAAAAfvY/fKOD-ECrvKs/s1600/JamiaMasjidMihrab.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E2POSMXMRU8/TYX1S09tEbI/AAAAAAAAfvY/fKOD-ECrvKs/s200/JamiaMasjidMihrab.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
Our next stop was the <b>Jamia Masjid</b>, which came after driving through quite a few narrow roads. There is a small clearing outside the masjid for parking. You need to keep your footwear outside before entering the mosque. This mosque has one of the most beautiful mihrabs (a decorated region in a mosque that points towards mecca and which people face while praying). The mihrab is gold plated and inscribed with persian verses. There is a large watertank in the middle surrounded by beautifully arched corridors. The Imam there was a nice old man who explained to us the history of the place and pointed us to different unique features of the mosque.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zeyy4FAcT2A/TYX1lbWmYoI/AAAAAAAAfvo/bVpmZzrG2Ro/s1600/AsarMahal.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zeyy4FAcT2A/TYX1lbWmYoI/AAAAAAAAfvo/bVpmZzrG2Ro/s200/AsarMahal.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div><b>Asar Mahal</b> was the next place we visited. This ordinary looking structure holds one of the most revered items - a few hairs from Prophet Mohammed's beard. There is a beautiful lake in front of the mahal. Women are not allowed inside the mahal; though I could go leaving my wife outside, I was not terribly interested. We sat outside for some time and left for the next place - one that has been touted as the most beautiful place here.<br />
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<b>Ibrahim Rauza</b> has starking resemblance to guess what... the Taj Mahal. And it is said that it did serve as an inspiration while building the Taj Mahal. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4H8jAi3gHII/TYYlZT46NMI/AAAAAAAAfvw/m4qQeLEQBeo/s1600/IbrahimRauza.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4H8jAi3gHII/TYYlZT46NMI/AAAAAAAAfvw/m4qQeLEQBeo/s400/IbrahimRauza.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The Rauza (Persian for mausoleum) was constructed by the sixth sultan of the Adil Shahi dynasty - Ibrahim Adil Shah - II (1580 - 1626 AD). It was constructed primarily as a mausoleum for his queen Taj Sultana. But it so happened that the king died before her and had to be buried here. It thus became known as the Ibrahim Rauza rather than the intended Taj Rauza. We would then have had the Taj Rauza and the Taj Mahal both similar sounding and similar in appearance. :)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Omcsu6jx-68/TYYmVuC6umI/AAAAAAAAfv4/3YADZNElJNw/s1600/IbrahimRauzaSymmetry.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Omcsu6jx-68/TYYmVuC6umI/AAAAAAAAfv4/3YADZNElJNw/s200/IbrahimRauzaSymmetry.jpeg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bOEf13PtVJk/TYYmVzmBTiI/AAAAAAAAfwA/i04JnraY0G0/s1600/CalligraphyIbrahimRauza.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bOEf13PtVJk/TYYmVzmBTiI/AAAAAAAAfwA/i04JnraY0G0/s200/CalligraphyIbrahimRauza.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
There are six tomb stones inside the structure. From east to west they point to the graves of i) Queen Taj Sultana, ii) Mother of Ibrahim Adil Shah - II, iii) Ibrahim Adil Shah - II, iv) the daughter Zohra Sultana, v) & vi) the sons - Dharvesh and Sulaiman. What people are allowed to see are just the tomb stones. The actual grave with the bodies lie in an underground chamber beneath the tomb stones in the same order. One can walk below to get a glimpse of the underground corridors leading to the chambers, but the chambers themselves are closed. The tomb of the architect of this structure - Malik Sandal is also present in the courtyard. <br />
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It was constructed at the cost of 1,50,900 Huns (an Adil Shahi gold coin); says the ASI information board. What is most beautiful about this place is the slender structures, the fine calligraphy on the walls and doors, and the striking symmetry.<br />
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Thus ended our stay at Bijapur. We had planned to go towards Bagalkot next, but we decided against it and fixed our next destination at Hospet. We went back to our room, taking rest till the next morning drive to Hospet.<br />
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</div><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">Back to "A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a></div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-65710361679850060002011-03-02T02:40:00.001+05:302011-03-02T19:01:48.398+05:30A Trip Down Memory Lane - Gulbarga (Kalburgi)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">(Part of a series of posts starting with <a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">"A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>)<br />
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The drive from Bidar to Gulbarga took us around two and half hours. Good roads and less traffic as the previous leg of our journey.<br />
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Bidar to Gulbarga distance: around 120km<br />
Driving time: 3 hours<br />
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Gulbarga was the capital of the Bahamanis till they shifted it to Bidar. So, the historical monuments here are slightly older than what we saw in Bidar. Gulbarga was renamed back to its traditional name Kalburgi in 2005. But the old name (or rather the new name that was replaced with the real old name) is still lingering around.<br />
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The Gulbarga Fort was the only place we wanted to visit here. We did find the place and ventured in as well. But the locals did not appear to be too receptive to our queries. We had a feeling that young (?), jeans clad, atheist looking tourists, who just take pictures of the broken fort and nothing else are not welcome here. We would have loved to be proven wrong, but unfortunately we were short of time and were in a hurry to find some accommodation for the night. No one seemed to be able to point us to any good hotel around Gulbarga. So we made a hasty turn towards our next destination - Bijapur, hoping to reach there before the reception desks of the hotels close.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gkRO1FnBLcg/TW1f2RmSw7I/AAAAAAAAfrg/SbDn-tUKn20/s1600/GulbargaFortEntrance.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gkRO1FnBLcg/TW1f2RmSw7I/AAAAAAAAfrg/SbDn-tUKn20/s200/GulbargaFortEntrance.JPG" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VYTW8ryObpY/TW1f2vN8Z7I/AAAAAAAAfro/r4hHNjXPVP0/s1600/GulbargaFortWall.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VYTW8ryObpY/TW1f2vN8Z7I/AAAAAAAAfro/r4hHNjXPVP0/s200/GulbargaFortWall.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
Gulbarga was not as exciting to us as we had hoped and we have little to share. But there are lots of places to be visited here as well. Here's a nice video on Gulbarga we had found on YouTube. We hope to visit this place again in future.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/PnIyGs60iBU" title="YouTube video player" width="425"></iframe><br />
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Bijapur, here we come... (next post)<br />
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">Back to "A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a></div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-12920214170827106532011-02-28T23:49:00.004+05:302011-03-02T02:44:57.108+05:30A Trip Down Memory Lane - Bidar<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">(Part of a series of posts starting with <a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">"A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>)<br />
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We had started off from Hyderabad early around 6 in the morning to avoid the city traffic. The drive from Hyderabad towards Bidar on NH-9 was uneventful with good roads and no traffic. The only confusion we had was where we needed to get out of the NH and take the right towards Bidar near Zaheerabad. We could not locate the turn, and went a bit ahead. Cursing the lack of road signs, we had to drive back some distance to catch the right turn again. The road from the NH towards Bidar was not as great, but drivable.<br />
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Distance from Hyderabad to Bidar: around 120km<br />
Driving time: 4 hours (including a brunch break of 30 mins)<br />
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The name Bidar appears to be derived from the Kannada word for bamboo - bidiru (might have had lots of bamboo trees in the past). Bidar is a small town with lots of history. Bidar, if you notice on the map, is right at the center of the deccan region. It also apparently had a mildly better climate than the surrounding region, which is why rulers preferred to make it their capital during those times. Most of the visible history today is from the period of the Bahamani rulers.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5Z9cF7vaCHE/TWvVb6m_Z0I/AAAAAAAAflU/u5nY5IecHiU/s1600/BidarEntranceGate.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5Z9cF7vaCHE/TWvVb6m_Z0I/AAAAAAAAflU/u5nY5IecHiU/s200/BidarEntranceGate.jpg" width="134" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tgOvrlDbwHE/TWvVcOFUztI/AAAAAAAAflc/HY8YRPUQyeE/s1600/Chaubara.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tgOvrlDbwHE/TWvVcOFUztI/AAAAAAAAflc/HY8YRPUQyeE/s200/Chaubara.jpg" width="134" /></a></div><br />
Being at the seat of power, Bidar has seen a lot of war and bloodbath. You can feel that as you enter the city through fortress like walls with massive iron doors. The entry path towards the door is narrow and curved, constructed so as to prevent the use of logs or charging elephants to break down the door. As you drive through the curved narrow entrance, watch out for any large trucks that might be coming from the opposite side. We had to back off to allow a lorry from the opposite side to pass before we could.<br />
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As you drive in to the city, the first monument that can be seen is the Chaubara. In the olden days it served as a watch post for the troops and a place to make announcements, and was later converted to a clock tower. At the crossing of four major roads, the place is very dusty, noisy and crowded. We didn't feel like stopping to have a closer look. Probably early morning is a good time to explore the Chaubara in detail.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sLBMvKIB-Uk/TWviUL35ENI/AAAAAAAAflk/E_yYRHqtRL4/s1600/MohammedGawanMadrasa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sLBMvKIB-Uk/TWviUL35ENI/AAAAAAAAflk/E_yYRHqtRL4/s320/MohammedGawanMadrasa.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1XKCqmPKIqM/TWvit2Ou9FI/AAAAAAAAflo/eD2tGEs5dOA/s1600/MohammedGawanMadrasa1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1XKCqmPKIqM/TWvit2Ou9FI/AAAAAAAAflo/eD2tGEs5dOA/s200/MohammedGawanMadrasa1.jpg" width="134" /></a></div>Nearby to the Chaubara is the Mohammed Gawan Madrasa (school). Mohammad Gawan was a Persian scholar who arrived at Bidar during the Bahamani period. He quickly became the favorite of the Bahamani Kings and the people through his knowledge and reforms. He was responsible for getter Bidar to be recognized as a seat of knowledge. Clad with beautiful blue persian tiles, engraved with writings of the holy Koran and flanked by two minars, the Mohammed Gawan madrasa must have been a treat to the eyes in those days. It still is an awe inspiring structure today, despite having decayed with time. One of the two minars has been destroyed completely by lightening. But we could still see small portions of the blue tile sticking to the surviving minar.<br />
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History says that the local leaders were jealous of Mohammed Gawan and got him executed by the King by deceit. They apparently stole Gawan's official seal, wrote a letter of treachery to a neighboring kingdom with his seal, and let the letter fall in to the hands of the drunk king. The king, in his drunken state, ordered an immediate execution of Gawan. The king realized his mistake when he became sober, but I wonder what he did to the culprits. The article was quiet about this.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eWnRrM8Nrqg/TWvjTw_CGVI/AAAAAAAAflw/8L38oqZoSiQ/s1600/BidarFortEntrance.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eWnRrM8Nrqg/TWvjTw_CGVI/AAAAAAAAflw/8L38oqZoSiQ/s200/BidarFortEntrance.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fBe6eiEZJbI/TWvjUEqvvZI/AAAAAAAAfl4/Ool9Um4NhGc/s1600/BidarFortGarden.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fBe6eiEZJbI/TWvjUEqvvZI/AAAAAAAAfl4/Ool9Um4NhGc/s200/BidarFortGarden.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
From the madrasa, we then moved towards the Bidar fort. The Bidar fort was built by the Bahamani sultan Alla-Ud-Din when he shifted his capital from Gulbarga to Bidar. Spread over a large area, it is surrounded by huge walls and a deep moat. One can see remnants of the same blue persian tiles at the fort gates. There are a total of seven gates for the fort.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gkd0p8QUPT8/TWvj044lnwI/AAAAAAAAfmA/6eOAqY7ozpY/s1600/BidarSolahKhamba.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gkd0p8QUPT8/TWvj044lnwI/AAAAAAAAfmA/6eOAqY7ozpY/s200/BidarSolahKhamba.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Inside the main fort building (that is still standing), there is a pretty lawn maintained by the ASI (Architectural Society of India). To one side of the lawn one can see the Solah Khamba Masjid (Mosque with 16 pillars). The other buildings around were under renovation and we were not allowed to go in. There is a small museum of the ASI inside the fort. The curator (?) was a very enthusiastic person who took time to explain all the stuff he had in the museum. He also requested us to buy one of his books which we did. :)<br />
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Out of the main building, we drove around the fort area, visiting various isolated ruins around. Most of the ruins were out of bounds and locked with chains, probably to prevent antisocial elements from using them as hideouts (quite possible in the vast lonely stretch of land). Looking at the scale of things around, we felt it must have been a very impressive place in the past.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8eCaJeEpIpo/TWvkN4vE_rI/AAAAAAAAfmM/qCu0xJVQUU0/s1600/BidarFortWithSky.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8eCaJeEpIpo/TWvkN4vE_rI/AAAAAAAAfmM/qCu0xJVQUU0/s200/BidarFortWithSky.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TZbWu4WN12M/TWvkOAfCgNI/AAAAAAAAfmU/UyE4dBr_570/s1600/BidarFortRuins.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TZbWu4WN12M/TWvkOAfCgNI/AAAAAAAAfmU/UyE4dBr_570/s200/BidarFortRuins.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
Certain places inside the Bidar fort have a unique mud which has been used traditionally to make beautiful black carved metalwork known as Bidriware. The manufacture of Bidriware is a pretty interesting process that involves the use of a combination of a certain alloy and silver. The chemicals in this special mud darken the alloy to a gleaming black color while silver is inert to it. This results in the striking black and white contrast of typical Bidiri metal work. We didn't have time enough to learn more about it, but there are some craft villages around that you can visit. If you are visiting Bidar, do read up about it and arrange for a trip to see the craftsmen at work.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J3d5IwoSfqs/TWvlAejCX6I/AAAAAAAAfmc/3uZroLNtTAM/s1600/BidarTombHazratKhalilUllah.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J3d5IwoSfqs/TWvlAejCX6I/AAAAAAAAfmc/3uZroLNtTAM/s200/BidarTombHazratKhalilUllah.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fWCJYJ2c2x4/TWvlAnt-n7I/AAAAAAAAfmk/HA_D4qliLEg/s1600/BidarTomb11Sultan.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fWCJYJ2c2x4/TWvlAnt-n7I/AAAAAAAAfmk/HA_D4qliLEg/s200/BidarTomb11Sultan.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
Near to Bidar fort lies the tombs of the Bahamani sultans. The first one that we saw as we drove towards it is a short white octagonal tomb - a pretty unusual sight. This is the tomb (locally known as the Chaukhandi) of Hazrat Khalil Ullah. He was the spiritual advisor of the then sultan. Driving further down led us towards a row of 5-6 more tombs. They were huge (mostly... with some small ones too) and some of them were in ruins.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hokCtPb5JVU/TWvlWVUrrGI/AAAAAAAAfms/-SNpkne5I0w/s1600/BidarTombTiles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hokCtPb5JVU/TWvlWVUrrGI/AAAAAAAAfms/-SNpkne5I0w/s200/BidarTombTiles.jpg" width="134" /></a></div>We could still see remnants of the same bright blue persian tiles on the walls. There was one tomb (of Humayun Bahamani, the 11th sultan) that had half of its dome broken open. It was initially surprising that the tomb of later sultans - the 17th and 18th were much smaller that those of their predecessors. But when we came to know that they were the last of the Bahamanis, it was not surprising any more. That reflected the state of the empire when it was falling down. If you want to identify the tomb of each sultan, they are <a href="http://www.ioc.u-tokyo.ac.jp/~islamarc/WebPage1/htm_eng/bidar_eng.htm#3a" target="_blank">at this (strangely .jp) site</a>.<br />
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We did not find a good place to stay at Bidar, so we decided to move on towards Gulbarga and Bijapur the same day. There were a couple of places we missed seeing at Bidar because of that - the most prominent of it being the Gurudwara of Nanak Jhira.<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="350" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&t=h&msa=0&msid=202857369023723098097.00049d50175cee03c5843&ll=17.921413,77.534466&spn=0.057166,0.072956&z=13&output=embed" width="425"></iframe><br />
<small>View <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&t=h&msa=0&msid=202857369023723098097.00049d50175cee03c5843&ll=17.921413,77.534466&spn=0.057166,0.072956&z=13&source=embed" style="color: blue; text-align: left;">Bidar, Karnataka</a> in a larger map</small><br />
<br />
Above is the google map marked with the places of our interest in Bidar. Zoom in at each place to get an overview of the layout of the place. When we started for Gulbarga around 3 in the afternoon, the effect of the light lunch we had at Bidar fort was already wearing out and we were hungry. We were hurrying to reach either Gulbarga or Bijapur before late evening so as to have some food and find a decent place to stay.<br />
<br />
Gulbarga and Bijapur in the next post...<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">Back to "A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a></div></div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-82870066173046028342011-01-17T02:50:00.014+05:302011-02-28T23:55:02.972+05:30A Trip Down Memory Lane - Hyderabad<div>(Part of a series of posts starting with <a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">"A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>)</div><br />
<div>Though I had visited Hyderabad before, it was mostly on business trips and I hardly ever had time to do anything else other than getting a belly-full of biriyani from one of the famed outlets. This time however, I had both time and purpose to explore (did I say time? we'll see...).</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNQ6zguonI/AAAAAAAAe68/BWEXmQaJgz4/s1600/ModernHyd1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNQ6zguonI/AAAAAAAAe68/BWEXmQaJgz4/s200/ModernHyd1.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNQ8X2heMI/AAAAAAAAe7A/BG0h2JaD20s/s1600/ModernHyd2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNQ8X2heMI/AAAAAAAAe7A/BG0h2JaD20s/s200/ModernHyd2.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<div>We reached Hyderabad by noon, and the city was bustling with activity. We never have had a GPS, and have always relied on two strategies - 1) use maps for the highway, 2) keep the map away and ask directions from people in populated places. Language is not really a barrier. From whatever experience we've had, one just needs to know how to pronounce the place name in local accent and know of other nearby places that common people may identify easily. Then use part sign language and broken local language, crosscheck directions often and gradually work your way from landmark to landmark. We had to find an address near Jubilee Hills (quite a famous location in Hyderabad), a relative's place we were to visit and possibly stay at. Hyderabad roads were notoriously narrow, crowded and devoid of any road signs and directions. I can't help but thank the people we asked directions from. Navigating though Hyderabad roads reinforced our trust on our way of finding way.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNVCICtpWI/AAAAAAAAe7E/8M8Nx59WogU/s1600/golcondaFort1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNVCICtpWI/AAAAAAAAe7E/8M8Nx59WogU/s200/golcondaFort1.jpg" width="200" /></a>The region that today is Hyderabad was part of the Bahamani kingdom. Way back in the year 1463, disturbances in this (Telengana) region forced the Bahamani rulers to dispatch one of their high ranking military officer, Sultan Quli Qutab-ul-Mulk, to this region to restore law and order. The Sultan did a great job and was rewarded by being made the administrator of the Telengana region, as a representative of the Bahamanis. Sultan Quli had Golconda as his base. He was an efficient administrator and ruled virtually independently from the Bahamanis, then based out of Bidar. The gradual weakening of the Bahamanis encouraged Sultan Quli to declare independence in the year 1518, and marked the beginning of the Qutab Shahi dynasty. The Qutab Shahi dynasty lasted 171 years since then till 1687, while the Bahamani kingdom broke up (by the year 1527) into four more kingdoms - those of Ahmednagar, Berar, Bidar and Bijapur.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNVGc4tzwI/AAAAAAAAe7I/Bgo-D8fjZ_8/s1600/golcondaFort4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNVGc4tzwI/AAAAAAAAe7I/Bgo-D8fjZ_8/s200/golcondaFort4.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNV8h9CD7I/AAAAAAAAe7M/f_XzxdYw25g/s1600/golcondaNightLight1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNV8h9CD7I/AAAAAAAAe7M/f_XzxdYw25g/s200/golcondaNightLight1.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<div>Golconda was a fort city, built on a granite hill. The original fort was built during the 13th century by the Kakatiya dynasty, after which it was passed on to the Bahamanis and then of course to the Qutab Shahis. Golconda was strengthened and grew with time along with the Qutab Shahi empire. It was pretty self sufficient and had many intricate and interesting structures that are standing even today. Golconda also had diamond mines and the precious stone was traded in the marketplace inside the fort. Going around the fort will take around half a day to one day. Taking help of a guide is strongly suggested for the first timer just to get a quick overview of the places if not for anything else; the area is quite vast. Apart from the regular information, you also get to listen to some romantic and some funny stories related to the fort. Armed with this introduction, one should then roam about the fort till evening. There is a light and sound show that is conducted inside the fort in the evening. The show re-iterates most of what the guides tell you, but with some pretty lighting and sound effects. By this time, the monuments are lit up with colorful artificial lights - time for some more photography.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNZdI_Do4I/AAAAAAAAe7Q/OuyghVOocTo/s1600/charminar3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNZdI_Do4I/AAAAAAAAe7Q/OuyghVOocTo/s200/charminar3.jpg" width="133" /></a></div><br />
</div><div>As the Qutab Shahi empire out grew Golconda, the Sultan had to set up a new city. Around 8km from Golconda, this city was named Hyderabad after a prominent Muslim religious figure. There are also a few other explanations of origin of the name, but they appear to be more of folklore. Eventually the capital was shifted to Hyderabad. The Charminar was constructed with four tall watch towers overlooking the city to keep a watch on the city and the Musi river nearby to warn of flooding. Today, the Charminar lies on the middle of a busy road, from where you can still watch most of the city and the constant flow of traffic and people in the marketplace right below.<br />
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<center><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNZeMNG96I/AAAAAAAAe7U/cZoz6mzk-6g/s1600/charminar2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNZeMNG96I/AAAAAAAAe7U/cZoz6mzk-6g/s200/charminar2.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNZewTnz2I/AAAAAAAAe7Y/cAM043qiids/s1600/charminar1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNZewTnz2I/AAAAAAAAe7Y/cAM043qiids/s200/charminar1.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
</center><br />
<div><br />
The place I liked most in Hyderabad was the Quatab Shahi Tombs. This is place where the departed Sultans of the Quatab Shahi empire were buried. There are around 20 tombs, ranging widely in size, all inside this quiet tree garden. The place is truly pleasant to walk and just laze around. The tombs loom around majestically, reminiscent of the past glory. The tombs are well marked, and in some of them you'll also find people present who will explain a few facts about the tomb. The tombs are located around 1km from the Golconda fort (one can see them from the edge of the fort walls), the place where the tombs occupants once ruled.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNdHNLEBnI/AAAAAAAAe7c/yoojilLWtHE/s1600/tombs2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNdHNLEBnI/AAAAAAAAe7c/yoojilLWtHE/s200/tombs2.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNdIalizuI/AAAAAAAAe7g/RBb7x-mpnL8/s1600/tombs1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNdIalizuI/AAAAAAAAe7g/RBb7x-mpnL8/s200/tombs1.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
The history of Hyderabad is not limited to what I have managed to cover in my short trip. I'm sure there is plenty more I have missed. There are also quite a few other places for fun and relaxation around. We spent some evenings at the Lumbini Park, right on the shores of Hussein Sagar. The Hussein Sagar lake was created by the Qutab Shahi's to store water from the Musa river and help improve irrigation and water supply to the capital city. Lumbini park, constructed in 1994, it is pretty recently built. There is a huge statue of Buddha, supposedly the largest in India, to which boat rides are available. The park gets very crowded in the evenings. So after one general round of roaming around, we usually sat down quietly in a corner.</div><div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNftoBMxlI/AAAAAAAAe7k/VDiQ0EqcDKs/s1600/lumbini1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNftoBMxlI/AAAAAAAAe7k/VDiQ0EqcDKs/s200/lumbini1.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNfwmI0ntI/AAAAAAAAe7o/C13RzvIauhc/s1600/ramojee2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNfwmI0ntI/AAAAAAAAe7o/C13RzvIauhc/s200/ramojee2.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNfx8umABI/AAAAAAAAe7s/VoaePoEVuzw/s1600/ramojee3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNfx8umABI/AAAAAAAAe7s/VoaePoEVuzw/s200/ramojee3.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNfy0NmWII/AAAAAAAAe7w/zF1XihvS1N4/s1600/ramojee1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TTNfy0NmWII/AAAAAAAAe7w/zF1XihvS1N4/s200/ramojee1.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
</div><div>Hyderabad also has a huge film studio called "Ramojee Film City" that is also open to general public. I had always known that films are not reality. In spite of that, this place surprised me with new tricks in every section. There is this section where they show how a scene from the popular movie "Sholay" could have been made. It seems like a dream world. After a round in the film city, I was instinctively touching and knocking at stuff to check whether they really are what they appear to be.</div><div><br />
</div><div>Hyderabad comes across as a city that is stretched taut between a strong cultural past and a burgeoning modern populace. Malls are as easy to spot as ancient tombs and palaces. The average Hyderabadi seems to have strong cultural roots, and as open at letting them go as the people of some other metropolitan cities.<br />
</div><div><br />
</div><div>Time flew, and when we looked back it never seemed enough. We were in Hyderabad for three days. We had a wonderful time learning about Hyderabad, and enjoying our stay, particularly with their two lovely entertaining kids around. We obviously haven't seen everything that Hyderabad had to offer, but if you are planning a similar trip, we would suggest spending at least...<br />
- Half day at Charminar. Spend some time in the streets and the market around Charminar.<br />
- Half day at the tombs.<br />
- A full afternoon and the evening at Golconda fort.<br />
- A full day at Ramojee Film City.<br />
- A evening at Lumbini park.<br />
- Some time savoring Biriyani from different places and biscuits from Karachi Bakery. <br />
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For the next leg of our trip, we set off to Bidar. More on that on the next post. <br />
</div><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">Back to "A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a></div><br />
<div></div></div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-66764491733942189072010-07-24T12:09:00.014+05:302011-09-06T11:07:59.652+05:30A Trip Down Memory Lane - Bangalore to Hyderabad<div>(Part of a series of posts starting with <a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">"A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a>)<br />
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</div><div>Distance from Bangalore to Hyderabad is roughly 550kms. We started from Bangalore in the evening at around six and intended staying overnight either at Anantpur or Kurnool. The roads were getting constructed (being upgraded to six lanes), which made us shift lanes every few kilometers. But there was not much traffic on these roads and the drive was enjoyable... till there was light, that is. Once it became dark, it actually became a bit dangerous driving on the unfinished roads. Actually at one instant I almost drove into the ditch of an unfinished bridge!</div><br />
<div>Though on one hand we liked the empty roads, but on the other hand less traffic also meant very few eating places and fueling stations. Actually we didn't find a single decent eating joint that evening, and were starving till late night. Though we did get a few small fueling stations, we held back thinking of filling up at some good place in Anantpur. I would recommend you to pack enough food on this stretch and fill up your tank to the brim.</div><div><br />
</div><div>Anantpur came at 200 kms from Bangalore. It was a disappointment as per our expectations (though if I look back now, it was not all that bad after all). So we decided to drive fast and reach Kurnool (150 km further). Kurnool is a bigger city than Anantpur. We reached Kurnool quite late just before midnight. Luckily we got a place to stay at the Mourya Inn, Kurnool. It had a good parking place. The rooms were also grand (sadly because we were there only for a few hours). We had a very sound and relaxing sleep though.</div><div><br />
</div><div>We started early next morning at 7 to beat the city traffic. Our car was cleaned nicely by the hotel personnel (probably the guard or the gardener) and we filled it up at a good fuel station nearby. The restaurant of Mourya had not opened yet, so we started off and had some idli and dosa at a small place just before exiting the city. It was not that great a place. If we had more time to relax, we would have had a nice breakfast at the hotel itself.</div><div><br />
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsH9qsnVuI/AAAAAAAAeFw/XSHgd_VfZuI/s1600/Blr_hyd_speed_160.JPG"><img style="margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 134px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsH9qsnVuI/AAAAAAAAeFw/XSHgd_VfZuI/s200/Blr_hyd_speed_160.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497496526150653666" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsH9KwCVGI/AAAAAAAAeFo/maFRi3VSGYs/s1600/Blr_hyd_men_at_work.JPG"><img style="margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 176px; height: 134px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsH9KwCVGI/AAAAAAAAeFo/maFRi3VSGYs/s200/Blr_hyd_men_at_work.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497496517575070818" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsH8nDgOSI/AAAAAAAAeFg/60g0fFMA2I8/s1600/Blr_hyd_nice_roads.JPG"><img style="margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsH8nDgOSI/AAAAAAAAeFg/60g0fFMA2I8/s200/Blr_hyd_nice_roads.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497496507993045282" /></a><br />
</div><div>The 200 km drive from Kurnool till Hyderabad was memorable. The roads were fully double laned, though some toll gate constructions were still underway. There was not much traffic. I could just zoom... Driving at 120 was a breeze and I even reached my record speed till date of 170! We even took a shaky pic when I was at 160. On the way we glimpsed some very colorful temples, and a village called Bhootpur (bhoot in one sense also means ghost, so this translates to ghost town). We reached Hyderabad by noon.</div><div><br />
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsJYRMnthI/AAAAAAAAeGI/5E-HBBOmGEs/s1600/Blr_hyd_bhootpur.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 134px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsJYRMnthI/AAAAAAAAeGI/5E-HBBOmGEs/s200/Blr_hyd_bhootpur.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497498082673669650" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsJYObbO_I/AAAAAAAAeGA/mPrd3wX6lXw/s1600/Blr_hyd_clr_temple_2.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 122px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsJYObbO_I/AAAAAAAAeGA/mPrd3wX6lXw/s200/Blr_hyd_clr_temple_2.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497498081930460146" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsJXzrY9tI/AAAAAAAAeF4/_WDrN82LdUY/s1600/Blr_hyd_clr_temple_1.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 134px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_d6eGs8NAzfY/TEsJXzrY9tI/AAAAAAAAeF4/_WDrN82LdUY/s200/Blr_hyd_clr_temple_1.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497498074749662930" /></a><br />
</div><div><br />
</div><div><b><br />
</b></div><div><b>Other attractions in this route:</b></div><div>If you can spare 2 full days for this stretch of drive, there are few more interesting places to visit on the way:</div><div><br />
</div><div>1. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nandi_Hills,_India">Nandi Hills</a>. Just at the outskirts of (60 km from) Bangalore. A small hill with a fort that belonged to Tipu Sultan. We have visited Nandi Hills many times, and therefore did not include it in our trip. Daytime is crowded with tourists. We particularly liked an overnight stay at Nandi Hills. The misty and quiet mornings are beautiful.</div><div><br />
</div><div>2. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lepakshi">Lepakshi</a>. A quaint village near (just before when driving from Bangalore) Anantpur with old temples of Lord Shiva, Vishnu and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virabhadra">Virabhadra</a>. The temple belongs to the era of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vijayanagara">Vijayanagara Empire</a>. It has some beautiful paintings on the ceilings, the largest monolith Nandi and some beautiful stone carvings.</div><div><br />
</div><div>3. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penukonda">Penukonda Fort</a>. An ancient fort near Anantpur (between Lepakshi & Anantpur when driving from Bangalore).</div><div><br />
</div><div>4. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belum_Caves">Belum Caves</a>. Almost 3km stretch of underground caves caused naturally by water. Some parts of this caves are still live, though most of it is dead.</div><div><br />
</div><div><div><b>Suggested Alternate Route:</b></div></div><div>So if you have the time, you can cover Bangalore to Hyderabad as:</div><div>1. Start from Bangalore in the afternoon</div><div>2. Reach Nandi hills in afternoon. Stay overnight. Start from Nandi Hills in the morning at 8.</div><div>3. Reach Lepakshi by 10. Visit around the temple, have lunch at Lepakshi. Start from there around 12.</div><div>4. Reach Penukonda Fort by 1 PM. Be here till evening before starting for Anantpur. </div><div>5. Halt for the night at Anantpur. Start for Belum caves next morning.</div><div>6. Reach Belum Caves before 10. You need at least 3-4 hours to get a good look at the caves. Start for Kurnool after that.</div><div>7. Stay overnight at Kurnool. Start for Hyderabad next morning.</div><div><br />
</div><div>If you can spare one more day, you can extend your stay at Anantpur for one more day and visit another nearby fort called Gooty Fort as well. Plan out this stretch based on your liking and where you want to spend more time. Each of them can take a full day if you get to like it!</div><div><br />
</div>
<div><a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-north-karnataka.html">Back to "A Trip Down Memory Lane"</a></div><div><br />
</div>
<div><b>Update:</b> We did finally go to some of these places nearby - Belum Caves, Lepakshi and few places near Penukonda Caves. <a href="/2011/09/magnificent-belum-caves.html"><b>Check out my post about this trip here.</b></a></div><br/>
Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-7540370909171102442010-07-11T17:35:00.013+05:302011-05-01T17:55:16.968+05:30A Trip Down Memory Lane - North KarnatakaThis road trip is not a recent one. It happened in July-August 2009 - a time when I was in midst of a change in career. [change is the only constant. and history, however insignificant it may seem, tends to repeat... that's why we learn history in the first place... to anticipate our future from the past...]<br />
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We started out on the evening of 25th July, Friday and were back on 2nd August. Just 9 days was too short for this trip, but it probably made the trip a bit more exciting. [like espresso... like a short story... the essentials delivered in one hefty punch... take it in, then ruminate on it to get the message...]<br />
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But you can also take this route leisurely, spend a bit more time at each of the places and cover a few more interesting places we left out. I'll mention all those possibilities as I narrate along.<br />
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Here is the gist of our road trip:<br />
Vehicle: Mariti Swift ZXI<br />
Distance covered: ~ 2500 kms (total)<br />
Days: 9<br />
Route: Bangalore -> Hyderabad -> Bidar -> Gulbarga -> Bijapur -> Bagalkot -> Hospet -> Bellary -> Chitradurga -> Bangalore<br />
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Route map below...<br />
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<iframe marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&t=h&msa=0&msid=104302368305863948034.00046f6248e6c2b1d107c&ll=15.45368,77.585449&spn=7.407621,9.338379&z=6&output=embed" frameborder="0" height="350" scrolling="no" width="425"></iframe><br />
<small>View <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&t=h&msa=0&msid=104302368305863948034.00046f6248e6c2b1d107c&ll=15.45368,77.585449&spn=7.407621,9.338379&z=6&source=embed" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 255); text-align: left;">Trip Down Memory Lane</a> in a larger map</small><br />
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All the places in our route have historical significance for southern India. Hampi (Hospet) is quite popular and widely recognized, but the other places are amazing as well. I had been to Hampi and Hyderabad earlier, vaguely remembered having read about the Vijaynagar empire and Nizams in school, but somehow I never had formed a picture (or rather a coherent story) in my mind. This trip was a trip down memory lane for me in that sense as well.<br />
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One of the reasons could be that I frankly had never found history interesting before. In school history felt like just a bunch of information to be remembered without any reason. I never understood why one should remember dates in history when it can be easily looked up in the book. Teachers (and many other adults in my time) then probably failed to induce the right interest for history in me. What would have interested me (and I'm sure many others like me then and now) was the whys' and what ifs' and why nots' of history. That is what is worth understanding... not just facts and dates... the facts and dates are just there to assist in understanding. Remembering them comes only second in the priority, so that are at your fingertips whenever you need to make some analysis or judgment.<br />
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I'd suggest this route to any one who is interested in history, or wants their kids to 'see, feel, and understand' this bit of Indian history. I'll cover each leg of my trip in more detail in future posts with whatever little understanding I gained and the exciting moments we had. Watch this page...<div><ul><li><a href="/2010/07/trip-down-memory-lane-bangalore-to.html">Bangalore to Hyderabad</a></li>
<li><a href="/2011/01/trip-down-memory-lane-hyderabad.html">Hyderabad</a></li>
<li><a href="/2011/02/trip-down-memory-lane-bidar.html">Bidar</a></li>
<li><a href="/2011/03/trip-down-memory-lane-gulbarga.html">Gulbarga</a></li>
<li><a href="/2011/03/trip-down-memory-lane-bijapur.html">Bijapur</a></li>
<li><a href="/2011/04/trip-down-memory-lane-hampi-hospet.html">Hospet (Hampi)</a>. also interesting: (<a href="/2011/03/trip-down-memory-lane-trucks-of-india.html">Bijapur to Hospet</a>) </li>
<li><a href="/2011/04/trip-down-memory-lane-bellary-fort.html">Bellary</a></li>
<li><a href="/2011/05/trip-down-memory-lane-chitradurga-fort.html">Chitradurga</a></li>
</ul><br />
</div>Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1701809777463229951.post-32098138097110310842010-04-18T16:49:00.006+05:302010-09-09T04:58:18.994+05:30Influencing HistoryHere's an old BBC documentary that I watched today. A written tradition (vs. oral) and the ability to communicate, spread and defend it is important in determining how history depicts cultures and events.<br /><br /><object height="360" width="450"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/iYMkTxNQGGU&hl=en_US&fs=1&"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/iYMkTxNQGGU&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="360" width="450"></embed></object><br /><br />This reminded me of an incident I was witness to in my childhood. My brother was in the final interview for one of the prestigious junior national level talent search contests at those times. The interview panel consisted of eminent academicians of the state (Orissa). One of them asked my brother a question about "Chandashoka". My brother was blank, clueless; this was the first time he was hearing this word. The interviewer was furious and was verbally upset about the ignorance of the term. He didn't bother to explain though.<br /><br />Back at home, when my brother mentioned this incident to my Father he was surprised as well, but smiled and said: "Don't worry. It is not your fault. It is because of the difference in how history was taught to your generation vs. my generation.".<br /><br />Chandashoka means "Chanda Ashoka" which translates to "Cruel Ashoka". It is the name Ashoka got after his invasion of Kalinga. Kalinga was located at the coastal region of the present day state of Orissa. Kalinga at those times was a happy, prosperous and culturally rich kingdom that valued their independence. The was was initiated by Ashoka, and history says it was because of a personal matter between his family. One of his family members had fled and sought protection in the Kalingas. The war was bloody and Kalinga fought till the last of its brave soldier. The river Daya, on whose banks the war was fought, turned red with the blood of the slain soldiers. Ashoka won the war, but it was so violent that it changed him for ever. He embraced peace and Buddhism. However the war dealt a huge blow to the Kalinga kingdom from which it never recovered. Kalinga was plundered, and most of the people deported.<br /><br />Ashoka was always referred as "Chanda Ashoka" in local tales and history literature. But my little brother never studied it in school, because the prescribed text book always referred to Ashoka as "Ashoka the Great". This little but profound term has lost its importance for future generations. Ashoka ruled for 37 years from 269 BC to 232 BC. The Kalinga war was fought in 265 BC, just 4 years into his reign. Information about the reign of Ashoka is mostly from documents and inscriptions created by him and during his reign.Tanmayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05342457728508357508noreply@blogger.com2