Friday, September 2, 2011

Magnificent Belum Caves

Belum caves are a network of underground caves in the village named Belum in Kurnool district, Andhra Pradesh. They are one of the largest caves in the Indian subcontinent, and so you can imagine their size. They lay ignored, being used as a garbage dump till some 20 years back when they were restored to their current glory through efforts from the local people in collaboration with the government. Belum, the name is probably derived from the word Bilum that means tunnels. There are apparently many places near that place where the tunnels open up to the ground.

The Caves:
The caves are a massive network of chambers. It was formed when an underground river washed away the soft limestone from the surrounding hard stones. The walls of the caves have deep marks that are the result of erosion caused by the river. There are many chambers in the network, each with a different and interesting name. Most of the chambers are not open for tourists. The few accessible places are artificially illuminated and aerated through pumped air from outside. The air vents and the pumps can be seen and heard if you are observant. The most beautiful of the lot was the chamber with stalactites in the shape of a banyan tree.


Clockwise from top left:
Entrance to the caves, Tunnels inside the caves,
Broken stalactites, The banyan tree formation
(click pictures to enlarge)

Most of the parts open for the tourists are 'dead' (not forming stalactites/stalagmites any more). Sadly, most of the stalactites were broken off by visitors over the years. There is only one place we saw that was 'live' and water still dripped from the ceiling. However it had turned into a worshiping place thronged by people who are constantly touching the rocks. I wonder how can people be made aware to leave nature alone.

Where the caves are still alive. Water dripping (left), the worshiping place (right).
(click pictures to enlarge)

To explore the caves, we had taken the help of a guide (Mr. Nagamani. Phone: +91 9441375615), who was pretty good. He helped us see a few unique places and took us through a couple of tunnels which we otherwise wouldn't have discovered. I do not know if he still has the phone number though.

Approach & places en-route:
Belum is around 320 km from Bangalore. The route goes from Bangalore through Devanhalli(NH7), Chikkabalapur, Bagepalli, Anantpur, Tadipatri to Belum. Roads were good for most of the stretch as we were either on the national or the state highway. Not many fuel stations on this road, it is better to start with a full tank.

We started in the morning and took a leisurely drive, stopping by at two interesting places en-route - the Lepakshi Temple, and Penukonda Fort. Lepakshi has many carved structures and beautiful paintings on the roofs of the temple.


Lepakshi Temple (click on pictures to enlarge)

The Penukonda Fort was in use by the Vijayanagara kings for some time. We however could visit only the summer palace (Gagana Mahal) on the way to the Penukonda Fort. It was late and the fort was no longer accessible. The Gagana Mahal has a tunnel (that the caretaker showed us) that apparently goes till the fort. The Penukonda Fort and nearby monuments require a full day by itself.


Ganaga Manal - corridors (left) and the tunnel entrance (right)
(click pictures to enlarge)

I guess the driving time without any stops would be around 5 to 6 hours till Anantpur. The road from Anantpur to Belum is not that great. Enroute we crossed Kadapa, a city famous for the Kadapa stones - a kind of black limestone / slate stone.

Stay & Food:
Till Anantpur there are a few (and I mean a few) highway restaurants but no good hotel to stay. The market street outside Lepakshi has some decent places for lunch, but nothing near Penukonda fort. I would suggest having food at or before Lepakshi while driving to Anantpur.

There are not many places to stay near the caves, so the best place to get a decent hotel is at Anantpur. We stayed at hotel Saptagiri at Anantpur (tariff around Rs.1000). It was clean, spacious and had good large parking space for vehicles. There are not many good restaurants around, at least near the place we stayed. We found a few not-too-bad ones on Subash road where we had dinner. But there were lots of fresh fruits available with road side vendors, mostly delicious figs (anjeer). We feasted on them to our fill.

At Belum caves, there is only one eating place - a canteen that serves vegetarian meals. We had our lunch there; though the food was all right, it was not all that clean when we visited (lots of flies around). The place is not much populated, so no other shops can be found nearby. My advise would be to carry your own food here when you are visiting.

Update: If you have more time, you can combine these places with a much larger tour of historical places near Bangalore and Hyderabad. Check out my series of posts about a similar trip here: Trip Down Memory Lane.

26 comments:

  1. Good description of your trip to Belum caves and Penkonda and Lepakshi temple. We covered the entire stretch on return from Srisailam, which included Mahanandi, Yaganti kshetra, Tadipatri etc

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  2. Awesome...really looks like a place to see!

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  3. @Siddartha Thanks!

    @Deguide That's great! There are lots of interesting places nearby. Just one weekend was not enough time for us. :( I hope I can visit it again on some longer holiday.

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  4. Thanks for sharing this. I was planning to visit Lepakshi, will now add Belum caves too.

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  5. Wonderful , would love to visit some time .

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  6. The photographs would have looked fab had they been enlarged. They are beautiful. India has such lovely places to see, apart from the touristy ones!

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  7. Nice work there. Such a good description of the place, with so many tips for people who might like to visit there in future. Keep Up the great work :)

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  8. @Floating Clouds, @Team G Square & @Ashwini: Thanks for your comments.

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  9. @zephyr Thanks for the suggestion... Actually clicking on the pics does bring up a larger size one... If you want still larger, some of the pics are on my Flickr stream (the picture bar on top). And still larger... you gotta message me for the originals. :)

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  10. Thanks for this post. Lots of information for those who would like to go here.

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  11. A good description of the place......it can help a lot to someone planning a visit and will add to their curiosity... if you can add more details, if possible, will add to more accuracy and yes if you become a hit then you can even ask for a commission from tourism department of the so and so place. :)

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  12. @Angija Thanks!

    @Nirvanic Thanks for the suggestions. I travel because I love to. I write about it to express my joy. In the perennial pursuit of happiness... and freedom of expression. I'm not a travel agent and I don't take commission from anyone. :)

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  13. Hi Tan Nice journey on this historical places!

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  14. This is really nice. I have spent over five years in AP around Mahbubnagar district but have not gone beyond into Kurnool. I would love to go this place.

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  15. Nice, there is so much to see in South India!

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  16. Tanmay, I am one of those lazy Nags who wants everything laid out on a platter, I guess. I did look at the enlarged pics and they are all wonderful. :)

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  17. @zephyr Ha ha! But thanks for the nagging anyway. BTW, I had been reading your writings and I sure can take blogging lessons from you!

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  18. @Sreedhar, @Kusum Thanks!

    @Meera It's never too late!

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  19. Wonderful pictures! Made me want to visit these caves right away! (Maybe i will :) I never knew such places existed so close by and are preserved well! Enjoyed it!

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  20. @rupam, @joshi Thanks!

    @darshan Great! Do share your experiences with us.

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    Replies
    1. Hi Tanmay, Thanks for the post.Cud u plz tel us if there are any timings for entering the caves & any age restrictions for kids? I hv a 2yr old kid so not sure if i can tak her. Plz suggest. cant wait to visit the place, its damn good. Thx once again

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    2. Not that I know of. I don't think there are any age restrictions.

      However, the inside of the cave may become stuffy the kid if he/she stays for a long time. Carry a torch light of your own, just in case there is a power failure while you are inside.

      I'm sure it will be an awesome experience for the kid otherwise.
      Cheers!

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  21. Enjoyed your blog. Thanks for sharing the post and beautiful pictures of the Belum caves. Kurnool is basically known as the Gateway to Rayalaseema. It is a famous tourist destination and there are many places to visit in Kurnool and around it.It is a must visit place.

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Thank you. I'm all ears!